ALONNISOS-BLOG.PONDERCENTRAL.COM

Welcome to the "Alonnisos Insider" Site

2012-02-08T03:35:32Z

Welcome to the Alonnisos Insider Site! As a frequent visitor to Greece (i.e., 10 trips between 1997 and 2010) I've learned many things about traveling there, and am particularly knowledgeable about the island of Alonnisos. My primary intention with this website is to provide readers with valuable insights into the island itself, including guidance with respect to:

The primary methods of getting to Alonnisos
Detailed information about what to see and do when visiting there
Courtesy listings for rooms, studios and homes available for rent on the island

In addition, I share "insider information" through my opinions as to the best-of-the-best restaurants and other service providers in Alonnisos. In this regard, I must stress that any recommendations I make regarding specific businesses are simply my experiences and suggestions, and of course they should not preclude you from visiting and experiencing other establishments during your stay on the island.

The best way to use the site is to refer to the Category Archives box to your left, as it provides a summary of all topics that are covered. If you have any questions regarding anything on this site, or have specific questions about Alonnisos, please feel free to contact me via email by clicking here.

If you have found value in this website and are a member of Facebook, please click on this link to be taken to the Alonnisos Insider page on Facebook, where you can choose to "Like" the site. This will help us to spread the word about the Alonnisos Insider. Thanks! Also please note that I've placed 82 beautiful photos of Alonnisos on that Facebook page, so check them out when you have a chance.

Important Notice: The date and time stamp at the bottom of every post is not always reflective of the "newness" of the information shared, as I regularly update older posts after every trip to Greece. Finally, please note that to keep this site "pure" none of the links on this site provide compensation to me or this website for any "click-throughs" made on your part.

Recommended Hotel in Kimi – Valledi Village Hotel

2012-02-08T03:34:28Z

On our return trip from Alonnisos in September of 2011, we chose to take an alternate route to Athens by booking passage on the Skyros Ferry to the port of Kimi on the island of Evia. Each ferry ticket was only €23, which was about half the cost of taking an Hellenic Seaways Flying Cat to Agios Konstantinos. Andrea and I, along with her mom and stepfather, took the advice of a British friend and booked a reservation at a hotel in Kimi called the Valledi Village. (Note that is is pronounced "Vah-len-dee.) This hotel is located in Kimi Beach as opposed to Kimi Town, which is about ten minutes away from the port (i.e., up the mountain) by taxi.

To say that we were impressed with this hotel would be a huge understatement. The place is simply wonderful, with spacious rooms and a beautiful swimming pool as well. It also offers suites and apartments that include an upstairs level. All of the rooms have a balcony with a view to the sea, and include air conditioning, TV, refrigerator and phone. Wi-fi access also is also available through arrangement with the manager (i.e., you need a security code).

This fantastic hotel also includes a breakfast hall (the food was great!), TV viewing area, a bar, and a souvenir shop. If you’re a resident of Greece who is taking your car to Alonnisos on the ferry, the Valledi Village also offers free parking. In addition to all of this, the people who work there (see photo to your right) are some of the nicest people we’ve ever met while traveling in Greece.

Please note that while our British friend said the hotel was very close to the ferry arrival point, the fact is it’s located about two kilometers to the south of there. So, if you chose to stay here, and you don’t have a car, you would need to take a taxi to the hotel. In addition, note that if you are returning to Athens through Kimi and intend on taking a KTEL coach bus, you will need to take a taxi up to Kimi Town to connect with the bus.

The room rates for the Valledi Village vary, of course, by time of year. We stayed there in early September 2011, after the busy season, and paid €55 for a double-room with breakfast. To inquire about room availability and prices, you can reach the hotel by phone at (30) 22220-24210, 22220-29150, or 22220-29151. The Valledi Village Hotel also has a very nice website with details about all of their rooms and services. Click here to visit the "Contact Us" page on the site.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Taste of Nature store – Old Village of Alonnisos

2012-02-06T03:06:32Z

Nestled along the main walkway through the Old Village is a wonderful little store called “Taste of Nature.” The owner of this establishment is a very friendly and welcoming young woman named Stella, and her store features a wide assortment of natural products from Alonnisos itself, and from other locations in Greece as well.

Local products include Alonnisos tuna, honey, sweets, soaps, and herbs (including oregano, thyme, sage, and mint). Also available are Greek traditional products such as extra virgin olive oil, olives, organic soaps, cosmetics, mixed herbs, and a selection of handmade wooden spoons, olive plates, and other dishes.

This group of products is just a small sampling of what Stella (pictured to your left with my wife Andrea) has available at this quaint store. As such, I highly recommend you take the time to visit it when you are in the Old Village, and stock up on some authentic Greek products. When you do so, please tell Stella that Andrea and I send her our best regards.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Helios Restaurant & Bar in Patitiri

2012-01-25T00:29:29Z

During our 2011 trip to Alonnisos we heard from several friends and from my in-laws as well, that we really needed to have a meal at the Helios Restaurant & Bar in the port town of Patitiri. They essentially raved about the quality of the food prepared there, and also remarked about the diverse nature of the menu. We eventually made it to Helios during the final week of our trip, and I must say that our dining experience there actually exceeded our expectations. The food was simply excellent in every respect and despite the fact that every table was filled, the service was quite solid that night as well.

Helios is also affectionately known by its regular customers as "Andy’s Bar" in honor of the owner and chef. Originating from Berlin, Andy (pictured to your right) is a professional chef who has extensive experience in preparing a wide range of gourmet dishes. My dear friend, "Ilias the Waiter," tells me that Andy spent four years in a top quality cooking school, and he also worked for several years as a chef in Italy prior to finding his way to Greece.

The night we visited Helios I ordered a Chicken Caesar Wrap that was perfectly prepared, and Andrea had a pasta dish that she greatly enjoyed. I don't recall what my in-laws ate that evening, but I do remember they, too, were very satisfied with their meals. Unfortunately, I also cannot recall the specifics of the menu, but I do know there were appetizers, salads, and entrees that (to my knowledge) are not available anywhere else on the island. That makes Helios a great alternative restaurant to dine at should you be ready to eat something beyond traditional Greek faire.

Helios also features a wide assortment of wines, beer, and hard liquor, and liqueurs. So, even if you're not ready for a meal it's worth your time to stop by and have a cocktail, or perhaps a coffee drink or some other beverage. I can assure you that both Andy and his girlfriend, Irini, (pictured to your left) will be very happy to welcome you. And, between them and their very efficient and entertaining waiter, Ivan, they will be certain to make your visit a very satisfying and enjoyable one.

Helios is located directly above the port of Patiri as you stand at point where the Port Police office is located in the center of the harbor. The restaurant is accessible from a set of steps on either road leading up from the port itself (the road is like a horseshoe, with the bottom of the shoe being the port).

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Recommended Hotel near Athens Airport - Peri's Hotel

2011-12-30T23:10:08Z

On our return from Alonnisos in September 2011, we wanted to stay at a hotel near the Athens Venizelos Airport, rather than at our usual hotel in the Plaka area of the city. However, we had no desire to spend a lot of money given that we would only be in the room a short time. Our friend Shirley McDaniel, a former home owner on Alonnisos and a regular visitor to the Greece, recommended that we stay at a place called Peri’s Hotel (see photo to your right). It’s located about 10 minutes drive from the north gate of the airport.

Built in 2004, it features 12 rooms (see sample room photo to your left), equipped with bathroom, fridge, TV, telephone, air conditioning, a hair dryer, and central heating. It also offers free wireless Internet access (WI-FI) in the lobby, and the hotel serves continental breakfast between 08.00 a.m. to 10.00 a.m. Transfer from and to the airport is available (free shuttle between 07:00 a.m. to 23:30 p.m.)

We were met at the airport by a very friendly man named Anthony (pictured to your right with my wife) who whisked us off to this small but well equipped hotel. Although located in an out-of-the-way neighborhood, there is a very nice restaurant about four blocks from the hotel (10 minute walk roughly), though please note that one of those blocks is a dirt road. If you have more time, you can also walk about five blocks back to the main road, and then meander about 20 minutes more to the right and you'll find yourself at the sea front where there are numerous restaurants available. Please note that I actually took that walk and while the end-point (i.e., the sea) is very nice, the route itself isn't all that wonderful as the sidewalk actually disappears in a couple of places (very common in Greece) and also isn't very wide in spots.

Now that we've discovered Peri's Hotel, there's no doubt in our minds that the next time we need to stay near the Athens airport (as opposed to the city center), we will be certain to book a room at this quaint little hotel. I cannot say enough about how nice and welcoming Anthony was, and the same goes for the owner Theodoros. At the price of just 80 Euros for a double room with breakfast (as of 9-11-2011), it offers much greater value in my view as compared to other alternatives that are nearer to the airport, such as the Sofitel (approx. 200 - 300 Euros) or the Holiday Inn (approx. 127 Euros or more).

For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Peri's Hotel via email by clicking here. The hotel also can be reached by phone at (+30) 22940 83763 or click on this link to visit the Peri's Hotel website.

If you do choose to stay at this nice little hotel, please do give our best regards to Anthony, and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago say hello.

Albedo Travel in Alonnisos

2011-12-30T21:58:48Z

There are three primary travel agencies in Alonnisos, and each has their own following and and areas of expertise. Because I have family that owns property on the island I've never visited there as a tourist per se, so I'm not in a position to provide a detailed evaluation of these agencies on this site. However, I can say with confidence that during the summer of 2009 I was very satisfied with the customer service provided by one of them (i.e., Albedo Travel, pictured to your right).

In particular, prior to departing on our trip I wrote an email to Albedo Travel to ask a question about purchasing boat tickets for our return trip to the Greek mainland. Within less than 24-hours I received a very friendly reply to my inquiry from the owner, Kostas Efstathiou. The speed of the response, was, in all honesty, not something I've been accustomed to when contacting businesses in Greece. Perhaps that's been due to the language barrier. In any event, once we arrived in Alonnisos I stopped at Albedo Travel to meet Kostas in person, and found him to be a wonderful person who is clearly dedicated to providing excellent service to his customers.

Albedo Travel has been in business since 1996 and offers a wide range of services, including booking accommodations for hotels, studios/apartments, and villas, plus renting cars and motorbikes, and offering guided walking tours In addition, Kostas offers boat trips, including two Marine Park Cruises (one that stops on the island of Kyra Panagia and another on Skantzoura island), and in 2012 he plans to add guided kayak tours (see photo to your left). Other tours include an all day bus tour of Alonnisos on a comfortable, air-conditioned coach bus. Kostas also works with other businesses on the island to accommodate special interest holidays related to Yoga practice and creative painting.

To learn more about the services offered by Albedo Travel, click here to visit the company's website. To contact Kostas Efstathiou by phone on Alonnisos during the summer season call (30) 24240-65804; during the winter he can be reached in Athens at (30) 210-8062826.

You can also reach Albedo Travel via email by clicking here.

Riding and Renting a Motorbike on Alonnisos

2011-08-13T17:04:59Z

During each of my ten stays on Alonnisos one of my very favorite things is riding a motorbike up and down the island's twisting roads, and navigating around the numerous obstacles that one encounters while cruising through the crowded streets of the port town of Patitiri. With respect to the latter, my wife and I always joke that driving through Patitiri is like playing a computer video game because all sorts of obstacles just appear at the last moment to keep you on your toes.

There are two particular stretches of the tarmac that are the most enjoyable in my view, the first being the views on the road between the Old Village and Patitiri (see picture to the left), and the second being those on the road down to the port town of Steni Vala (photo below right). In both cases the vistas are just amazing, and I truly have never tired of seeing these sights no matter how many times I driven up and down these roads. There's also something magical about the smell of the pine forests as you cruise down the road with the wind blowing softly on your face. There are times during the winter here in Chicago that I long for the scent of those beautiful pines and the visual treats that await me around every corner on the roads of Alonnisos.

To see a brief YouTube video of what driving the road down to Steni Vala is like, click here. The music clip attached to it is from a song called "Foreign Land" performed by a Paris, France-based rock and roll band called Televox (www.televoxmusic.com). The band is led by my good friend Lorenz Plassman, who I met on Alonnisos in 2007, and who gave me permission to use this copyrighted audio content.

How Safe is Riding a Motorbike on Alonnisos?

If you are a person who is comfortable riding a two-wheeled vehicle, in my view there is simply no better way to experience the island than to rent a motorbike. One of the first questions that you may ask is, "is it dangerous?" Honestly, yes, it can be if one is an inexperienced rider. As the driver, however, you are the one who is ultimately in control of your destiny. So, if you drive carefully, and stay sober while driving (this is critical on these roads), your chances of getting into an accident on Alonnisos are no worse than they are anywhere else, and perhaps less simply because there are dramatically less vehicles on the entire island than one normally would encounter at any one moment in a typical medium to large-size European or U.S. city.

So, assuming you are up for the challenge, the only thing you need to figure out is, who on Alonnisos to rent your motorbike from. In this regard, there are numerous businesses that rent them on the island, and I'm sure that for the most part you'd probably be satisfied with any number of them. There is, however, one particular business that I have rented from for over ten years, and every time I return I don't hesitate in going right back to them. The business I refer to is I & M Motorbike Rental, and the proprietors are Ilias and Maria.

They live in Volos during the winter, but come to spend every summer in Alonnisos where they offer a great assortment of motorbikes, backed by some of the friendliest service you'll find anywhere on the island. I first rented from Ilias back in 1997, and since then he and his wife Maria have always provided me with a quality ride at a competitive price. More importantly, anytime I've experienced a problem (such as a flat tire), he's been excellent about getting me back on the road as quickly as possible. I cannot say enough about the character and hospitality of Ilias and Maria, and for that reason I highly recommend their rental business. In fact, during my visit in 2009 I suggested I&M to visitors from Italy and the U.S. who I had met while there and all of them reported complete satisfaction.

Just so you know, they offer both automatic transmission mopeds (see above) and automatic with shift (no clutch) models such as the famous Honda Cub (see photo at right). In addition, if you're into larger, traditional motorcycles, they can accommodate your needs there as well.

Finding I&M Motorbike Rental

I&M's original location is in Patitiri on what we call "the back street." The photo to your left of Ilias and his father, Apostolis, provides some insight as to what the storefront looks like. It's easy to find because there's a large number of motorbikes parked across the street from it. To contact I&M by phone call (30) 2424-065010 (where 30 is the country code). To reserve a motorbike via email click here.

During 2010 I&M built another facility out-island on the main road between the first road to Chrissi Milia, and the road to Kokkino Kastro beach. This larger facility (see photo to your right) is located on the left side of the road when you are coming from the direction of Patitiri. It is more convenient for people who are staying at the Alonnisos Hotel and other rental properties in the area. In addition to motorbikes this facility offers cars for rent.

Happy motoring, but just be careful out there!

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Milia Bay/Beach and the Milia Bay Hotel-Apartments

2011-08-02T02:45:00Z

Milia Bay and beach is nestled among hills and pine trees and is a wonderful place to take a swim and spend the day. As the photo to your right shows, the beach at Milia is spacious enough to accommodate a number of visitors, but is still small enough to limit crowds of people from showing up on any given day.

Like most beaches in Alonnisos, Milia Bay is comprised of stones as opposed to sand (see photo below left), so for optimum comfort you’ll either need to rent a beach chair (around 12 Euros with umbrella in 2010), use a heavy-duty beach mat, or have an air mattress (lie-low in the UK) to lie on. To see a brief YouTube video that shows a view of this beautiful beach from the sea, click here.

Milia Bay is located perhaps five kilometers from the port town of Patitiri, and eight kilometers from the Old Village of Alonnisos. Because of this distance, walking there would be quite challenging for most people, so that means you’ll most likely need to either rent a motorbike or a car to get there. Years ago the road down to this beach was made of dirt and was very rough, but now it is paved and very smooth. If you do drive a rental car there, please note that parking is quite limited at Milia Bay, and that there is a private driveway just before the beach that should not be blocked.

Milia Bay Hotel and Apartments

There is no restaurant or taverna located on the beach, but located above the bay (i.e., on the way down to the beach) there is a gorgeous property called the Milia Bay Hotel and Apartments (see photo to your right) that Fodor's identifies as one of the best places to stay in all of Greece. In addition to excellent accommodations, they also serve delicious food. During our 2009 trip on two occasions we once again had a delicious lunch at poolside, and the service was great as well.

The Milia Bay Hotel/Apartments are owned and operated by a very friendly woman named Vivian, along with her very hospitable son Andreas and

daughter Liza (pictured to the left). If you are reading this post and haven't yet selected accommodations on the island, you might want to consider staying at this hotel, as it truly is a beautiful place. For full details about this property, click here.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Edem Estiatorio & Café in Patitiri

2011-07-26T03:03:33Z

Recently I learned that a very nice restaurant in Patitiri, previously called "Argo," has reopened this summer as the Edem Restaurant & Café (see photo to your right). We ate at the original Argo restaurant some years ago and found the food to be very good. In addition, the view from the restaurant is quite stunning, as the property faces east toward the uninhabited islands known as "The Two Brothers."

Our dear friend "Ilias the waiter," who we originally met in 2005, chose to come back to Alonnisos this summer (he worked in Karpathos the past two summers) to work at Edem and help them re-launch the restaurant. Ilias (pictured on the left with Andrea and me) emailed me in June to say that the original owners of Argo have done a great job in creating a menu that offers both high quality food and reasonable prices as well.

Specific entrees available at Edem include: lamb baked in paper, grandmama's meatballs, giuvetzi, roast beef al a greca, and on the weekends, pork gyros and spit roast chicken. For seafood lovers, they also offer lobster spaghetti, crawfish spaghetti, grilled stuffed squid, octopus stew and more. Traditional Greek dishes include mousaka, snapper filled stew, spezzofai, cheese pie, pasticcio, and stuffed tomatoes and peppers.

Nestled among many beautiful pine trees that overlook Patitiri harbor, the Edem Restaurant & Cafe is located near the area where the large ferry boats arrive in Alonnisos. From the taxi stand/bus stop in Patitiri, just walk straight down the road towards the sea and at the end, on your left, are stairs that will take you directly up to the restaurant. When you arrive, please be sure to ask for Ilias (there is no better waiter in Greece!) and let him know that Jeff & Andi sent you.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

The Italian Gelateria in Patitiri & the Old Village

2011-07-23T20:00:00Z

Whenever we have dinner out in either Patitiri or the Old Village of Alonnisos our usual custom is to stop by the Italian Gelateria for a bit of dessert before heading back home. The location in Patitiri is situated perhaps just 50 meters from the harbor on the right side of the main road going up towards the Old Village, it was originally started by two wonderful and very friendly women from Italy, Jana, and Julianna, who brought with them their craft of making incredibly delicious Italian ice cream.

Prior to the summer tourist season in 2007 they sold the business to two other Italians who now live on the island full-time, Barbara and Giorgia (pictured to the right), but not before Jana taught them everything they needed to know about making the ice cream with the same level of quality and taste that customers had become accustomed to over the years.

I can speak from personal experience that the ice cream they sell is simply fantastic in every way. It truly is the perfect dessert food to end any evening spent in Alonnisos. When you visit the Patitiri location if you don't find Georgia or Barbara there at the time you may instead encounter a lovely girl from the island named Matilda (pictured to the left) who will be taking care of your order. We first met her in 2005 when she was just in her second year of high school and since then have found her to be one of the nicest, and most polite people we've ever met in Alonnisos. The fact that she can easily speak four languages tells you that she's also a very bright young lady as well!

The Gelateria location in the Old Village (pictured to your right) opened during 2008 and is really convenient for anyone staying up there. It's located perhaps 60 meters from the bus stop in the Old Village as you walk up toward the main square (or in Greek, "plateia") of the village. During our trips in 2009 and 2010 I have to admit we made numerous trips to this location.

When you do visit Alonnisos and find your sweet tooth calling you after dinner (or at any other time), rest assured that you can't go wrong stopping by either location of the Gelateria. And, when you do see Giorgia, Matilda, or Barbara, please tell them Jeff and Andrea from the USA send her our best regards. Bon appetit.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Old Village - Taverna Peri Orexios

2011-07-11T02:00:00Z

Located in the Old Village of Alonnisos, just above the grocery store that stands right in front of the bus stop, Taverna Peri Orexios (see photo to your right) offers a nice selection of meals. In addition to having a small number of tables at its second-floor location, this restaurant has quite a bit of seating downstairs and directly across the road in an area we have come to call "the forest" (see photo below and on the left). It's actually a relatively small spot of green space with large pine trees just beyond the bus stop/taxi stand. From Peri Orexios you also get a view of the short road leading up to the plateia (town square), and of the Old Village itself.

Taverna Peri Orexios originally opened in the summer of 2007, and quickly became a favorite among Europeans who own homes in the Old Village. It’s operated by a gentleman named Panayiotis and his wife Marina, who serves as the lead waitress. Its menu includes some traditional Greek faire, but also features dishes from other cuisines. Andrea and I and my in-laws as well are particularly fond of their sautéed mushrooms, tabouli, chicken with Basmati rice, a unique potato dish that is cooked with bacon and yoghurt, and a very tasty eggplant (aubergine) and feta cheese appetizer that is satueed in tomato sauce. We ate at this restaurant several times during our 2009 and 2010 trips, and were always very satisfied with the quality of the food and the service as well.

Note that in addition to being seated and eating a meal at the restaurant, Taverna Peri Orexios offers both carry-out and delivery service if you happen to be staying in the Old Village.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Rental Rooms at Megalos Mourtias Beach

2011-07-05T17:27:42Z

In addition to operating the wonderful Megalo Mourtia Taverna I wrote about in an earlier post, the owners, Ria and Yiannis, also have rental rooms available for folks who prefer staying close to the sea. The rooms are both comfortable and affordable, and each includes air-conditioning, a fully equipped kitchen with refrigerator, a spacious bathroom (with hairdryer and separate shower) and a large balcony. Private parking also is available.

The rooms (see photo to your left) are located perhaps just 50 meters from the taverna, so you can walk out your door and then be seated and ordering a meal in just a couple of minutes or less. The distance to the beach itself at Megalos Mourtias is essentially the same, which makes it a great place to stay if you really enjoy spending time near the ocean.

For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Ria and Yiannis Anagnostou via email by clicking here. When contacting them please mention the code ABMMR so they know you learned about these rental rooms on the Alonnisos Insider Site. Thanks.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant in Patitiri

2011-06-30T21:45:00Z

Another restaurant in Patitiri that I recommend is the Pleiades Restaurant & Bar, which is part of the Pleiades Hotel that overlooks the harbor in the main port of Patitiri. We have eaten there a couple of times during our most recent trips, and each time found both the food and the service to be excellent. It is owned and operated by two very nice gentlemen named Jorgos (George) and Tony, and the restaurant itself is a very laid back place that offers a great selection of local and ethnic dishes, fresh salads, a full bar, and desserts and coffees as well.

Recently the owners made some enhancements to the restaurant, including the addition of a beautiful new stone bar and a pergola. The place also offers tremendous views of the port, and on a regular basis in the summer there is live entertainment, including performances by my friend Chester Smith and his pal Chris Browne, also known as The Barefoot Blues Band.

In addition to the restaurant, George and Tony rent out four rooms and five studios, all of which are attractively furnished and feature excellent views of the port of Alonnisos and the islets beyond. All of the rooms and studios include a refrigerator, air conditioning, an electric kettle, and a TV.

To learn more about the Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant, visit this link.

Lefto Gialos Beach and the Eleonas Estiatorio

2011-06-20T21:00:00Z

If I had to choose my favorite beach on Alonnisos, I would say without question it is the beach known as Lefto Gialos. Located on a beautiful bay surrounded by rugged, hilly terrain, it’s undoubtedly one of the best beaches for swimming on the island. It’s also a fairly large beach in that there's usually ample room for people to find a place to sit or lie down without being right on top of somebody else.

Like most beaches on the island, Lefto Gialos is comprised of stones as opposed to sand, but unlike many others, the stones are for the most part consistently whitish in tone and are more round than flat (see photo to your left). That means for optimum comfort you’ll either need to rent a beach chair (around 12 Euros with umbrella), use a heavy-duty beach mat, or have an air mattress (lie-low in the UK) to lie on. To see a brief YouTube video that shows the type of view you'll get to experience at this lovely beach click here.

Lefto Gialos is located perhaps eight kilometers from the port town of Patitiri, and 11 kilometers from the Old Village. Because of this distance, walking there would be quite challenging for most people, so that means you’ll most likely need to either rent a motorbike or a car to get there, or take a taxi. The drive offers some very nice scenery on the way, including a gorgeous view of another beach called Tzortzi Gialos (see photo to your right), and the road is paved and very smooth for the most part.

When we initially visited this beach back in 1997 it was a lot different than it is today. The road wasn’t paved and in spots was very rough-going. In addition, there was just one restaurant, and its source of electricity was a gas-powered generator because power lines had not yet been extended to that area of the island. Back then it was so rustic there was a goat herder who regularly brought his flock down from the hills to drink water from a trough located right on the upper portion of the beach. I’ll never forget one day when I was lying on the beach almost asleep and I heard the sound of many ringing bells. I opened my eyes and was surrounded by perhaps 50 goats! Don't worry though, the goats are no longer brought down to that area to drink.

The Eleonas Estiatorio

Currently there are two restaurants at Lefto Gialos, and each of them has its own charm and following. We are particularly fond of the Eleonas Estiatorio because the food and service is always excellent, and, we have personally known the owners, Nikos and Magda, and their family, for more than thirteen years.

Eleonas is the restaurant on your right when you arrive at Lefto Gialos beach. The original estiatorio there, it’s located in the midst of an olive tree grove and in addition to the shade offered by the trees it offers thatched umbrellas to protect diners from the very hot Mediterranean sun.

When we initially met Nikos and Magda in 1997, they treated us with very genuine filoxenia (Greek for hospitality), and each time we return we are treated like family. Nikos has also been very helpful to me in my feeble attempts at learning to speak Greek, often instructing me in the midst of serving our food! (photo to your left is of Nikos and me in 2006). During the busiest part of the tourist season Eleonas is always filled with customers, but even so we usually are able to get a table fairly quickly. If by chance you do have to wait for a spell, rest assured that your meals will be well worth the wait.

The Menu

Open for lunch and dinner, Eleonas has a very large assortment of menu items, including numerous hot & cold appetizers and salads that can serve as meals all by themselves. With respect to the entrees, we’ve always found anything they make in the oven to be very delicious. When artichokes are in season they include them along with potatoes in a couple of dishes using a wonderfully tasty sauce, and Eleonas also offers a full range of traditional Greek cuisine. There is usually an excellent selection of both fresh and frozen fish, and shellfish as well.

Desserts are likewise available, as are a selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well. While not a daily menu item, one very sweet treat that Eleonas makes occasionally is called “fuskakia,” or “little blisters,” which are little balls of dough deep-fried and then sweetened with honey, and I believe a bit of cinnamon flavor as well. Trust me; it’s impossible to eat just one of them!

Atmosphere

While not right on the water, the Eleonas Estiatorio offers a view of the beach and is located approximately 50 meters from the sea. The photo to your left of my wife Andrea gives you a perspective of the "look" of the grounds of this wonderful estiatorio. While most of the business is done during the day, Eleonas is also open in the evening. The peaceful location always makes dining there a very enjoyable experience. Please also note that during 2009 Eleonas added a cafe/bar located nearer the water that offers a wide selection of drinks, as well as snack-type food entrees. Should you visit Eleonas please do give our regards to Nikos and Magda, and tell them that Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you!

To learn more about Eleonas, visit their website in English, or in Greek.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Megalos Mourtias Beach and the Megalo Mourtia Taverna

2011-06-14T01:44:00Z

Megalos Mourtias is the closest beach to the Old Village of Alonninsos that offers full services (i.e., food and drink, restrooms, beach chair and umbrella rental). There are actually three tavernas at Megalos Mourtias, and each of them have their own charm and following. Since this beach is just a couple of kilometers away from the home we typically use during our stays, we tend to spend most of our swimming and beach time there. In fact, it's only a very rare day that we don't spend some time lounging around the beach at Megalos Mourtias.

Over the years more often than not we tend to walk down to this beach since it only takes 20 - 25 minutes from the house we use. But, that's the easy part of course, as based on your fitness level and the number of beers or cocktails you may have consumed at the taverna, the walk back up to the village can be quite challenging! The photo to your left gives you a clear idea of just how steep that walk back to the Old Village actually is, though it does overstate it a bit since both the road and the path provide a more gradual ascent.

Megalos Mourtias, like most beaches on Alonnisos, is a stone beach as opposed to sand. So when visiting this type of beach we strongly advise that you purchase some "water socks" since walking on the stones can be quite uncomfortable. If you don't want to leave them on while swimming once you're in the water You can always toss them back toward your beach chair or towel. Speaking of the

stones, while using a beach towel on top of them is an option that many take, it is very difficult to remain comfortable lying on them for long periods of time. In our case we bring air mattresses (or a lie-low if you're from the UK) and put our towels on top of them. The added advantage of the lie-low obviously is that you can take it out into the water and enjoy the feeling of floating on the sea as the current moves you back and forth. This is perhaps my favorite activity in Alonnisos! On the other hand, if you're not up for blowing up the lie-low then you can always rent a couple of lounge chairs alone or with an umbrella (price in 2010 was about 12 Euros).

One word of caution when you begin to carve out your place on the beach is that you must be aware that when a large ferry passes by, even one a couple kilometers or more out into the sea, eventually some very large waves that were generated by the ship's wake make their way to shore. When that happens, if you have set your towel, chair or lie-low too close to the water's edge you are definitely going to get wet! It's actually quite comical to watch this happen to unsuspecting newcomers, as it always results in a scramble to higher ground. To see a brief YouTube video that shows the view you'll get to experience at this lovely beach click here.

The Megalo Mourtia Taverna

The Megalo Mourtia Taverna (entrance from the beach is shown to your left) is our favorite taverna on the beach. It is owned and operated by a wonderful couple, Yiannis & Ria, who are assisted by their children Kelly and Dimitris, as well as various other family members.

We first met Yiannis & Ria (pictured to your right along with Kelly) back in

2006 after being invited to a private party at the taverna one evening. We had never visited their place prior to that night, but once we had an opportunity to get to know them and sample their great food, we were hooked. From that evening on, whenever we head down to Megalos Mourtias we always find a spot on the beach near their taverna and usually eat lunch or a snack there as well. Ria is not of Greek descent but she has lived in Greece for so long that she is exceptionally fluent in the Greek language, and even teaches Greek to foreigners during the off-season. Both Yiannis and Ria have always been very hospitable to us, and truly do treat us like friends.

Besides us, there is also a core group of foreigners who own homes on the island that frequent this taverna, so it's very common to see the same smiling faces milling about on a daily basis. In addition to the great food and service, there's two other benefits to eating at the Megalo Mourtia Taverna. First, it qualifies you to use (for no charge) one of their lounge chairs (subject to availability) that are located on the same level as the restaurant (i.e., not on the beach). If you can land a chair you have the choice of being directly in the sun or lying underneath one of the lovely olive trees on the property (see picture to your left). The second benefit is the ability to park a rental car on the property when space permits (get there early!).

The Menu

Open for lunch and dinner meals, the Megalo Mourtia Taverna has broad menu that includes both hot and cold appetizers and a full range of fresh salads as well. Their Beet Salad (with garlic) appetizer is by far our favorite, and we also enjoy their appetizer sampler, which includes a number of the cold appetizers on a single platter for a very nice price. As for entrees, I recommend you try their Swordfish Souvlaki, Dizzy Chicken, or the Stuffed Mushrooms, but the fact is everything else they offer is very tasty as well. Finally, Yiannis & Ria usually have a excellent selection of fresh fish and shellfish as well.

Atmosphere

The view of the sea from the Megalo Mourtia Taverna is, for the most part, unobstructed when seated at most of the tables. During the day it can get quite busy, but Yiannis & Ria always do their best to make sure customer are served as promptly as possible. If you ever do experience a problem, Ria, as the primary server, will be certain to take care of it with a smile. While most of the business is done during the day, the taverna is open for business at night, and the sound of the waves coming up on the shore combined with the sweet scent of the sea make having dinner there a very enjoyable experience. We celebrated my birthday here with a dinner during the summer of 2009 and it was a wonderful experience in every respect.

From our experience, eating (or drinking ) at this establishment is like sitting down with good friends. The combination of excellent food and solid service makes this taverna one that you will want to return to whenever you visit the beach at Megalos Mourtias. When you do visit, please do give our regards to Yiannis & Ria, and tell them Jeff and Andrea sent you!

As for the atmosphere of the beach itself, Megalos Mourtias has always been one of my favorites on the island. There’s just something about the view toward the neighboring island of Skopelos as the sun is fading that really touches my heart. In fact, I was so moved by it, that in 2003 I asked the artist who was working on the artwork for my first book (Spirituality Simplified) to use a series of digital photos taken from this beach as the foundation for the cover graphic (see picture to your right).

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Alonnisos Loses a Long-standing Home Owner - Nicoletta Trenta

2011-05-31T19:15:00Z

Although this blog’s focus is to provide a wide variety of information about Alonnisos, once again I feel compelled to post news about the recent passing of a beloved friend on the island who we met more than a decade ago. Her name was Nicoletta Trenta, and she lived in Torino, Italy, but owned a home in the Old Village area of Alonnisos for over twenty years. She usually spent entire summers on the island, and was known and loved by people everywhere on the island.

Andrea and I originally met Nicoletta (pictured between us to your right) during the summer of 2000, as her home was located just behind the rental house we were using that summer. We took an instant liking to her, and just about every evening after returning from my hike to/from Micros Mourtias beach I'd walk down to Nicoletta's house and we'd have a cocktail together and a wonderful conversation. She always made me laugh like crazy; in fact, she often made everyone around her laugh because she had such an amazing sense of humor. When she combined her beautiful Italian accent with her sometimes interesting use of the English language, there were many times she was downright hysterical to listen to. She always made me smile, and because of it I even included her name in the acknowledgments pages of my first book.

Over the ten years we knew her, we had the pleasure of spending many great times with her, and she always kept us entertained. She really did revel in making people happy, and at times she also enjoyed being ornery just for the hell of it; the truth is we loved her either way. The last time we saw Nicoletta was in the summer of 2009, and it was at that time that she began to have some health challenges, though she never told anyone what was at issue. Despite those health problems, she remained quite busy and active that summer, and even joined us one time when we took a boating trip on my in-laws' caique (see photo to your left of her and my step father-in-law Peter).

To say that I personally will miss Nicoletta's presence on Alonnisos would be a major understatement. Andi and I both loved her like she was family, and the thought of returning to the island and not seeing her big smile and getting a warm hug and "kiss-kiss" from her is not a pleasant one. Nicoletta truly was part of the very fabric of the island for all the years she visited there, and there is no doubt she will be sorely missed by anyone who had the great pleasure to know her.

The Ostria Café and Estiatorio in Patitiri

2011-05-21T01:57:46Z

The restaurant we visit most often in Patitiri is called the Ostria Café, and it is operated by Eleni Anagnostou-Cupcea and her husband Victor. Her mother, Maria, also plays a big role in running the business. We originally met Eleni in 2000 when we spent the entire summer in Alonnisos so that I could work on my first book, and over the years she has become a dear friend to us.

Based on the number of tables, the Ostria Café is one of the largest restaurants in Patitiri, but just because it can serve so many people at once doesn’t in any way mean that you won’t get high quality meals. On the contrary, all dishes are cooked to order and are, in our experience, always very delicious. In addition, since Eleni has worked in this restaurant since she was a young girl, she knows how to run it very efficiently, and works very hard to make sure that high levels of customer service and food quality are always maintained. Victor is the head waiter and there’s none better on the island. When we first met him a few years ago we were very impressed with his command of multiple languages, including his native Russian, Greek, English (very fluent), some Italian & German, and perhaps even more as I write this! (The picture above of the four of us was taken in the summer of 2007.)

The Menu

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the Ostria Café has an expansive menu, so large in fact that I’m amazed Eleni can make so many different types of food available on a daily basis! Breakfast meals include ham and egg dishes, a wide assortment of omelets, juices, and more. The lunch and dinner menus include hot and cold appetizers, numerous salads, and pizzas as well.

As for the entrees, it is in this area that Eleni’s fantastic cooking skills are most apparent. Her oven-baked dishes, including some lamb and chicken entrees, are simply wonderful. She also prepares traditional Greek dishes such as Moussakas and Pastitio if you have a preference for those. In addition, once dinner is over there are various dessert options, and the Ostria Café also has a wide selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well.

Atmosphere

The Ostria Café (pictured to your right) is located right on the waterfront in Patitiri very near to where most of the hydrofoils and day-boats arrive, so it is very centrally located and offers a great view of the harbor. It is also a Wireless Access Point if you are traveling with a laptop and need Internet access. The location also makes this restaurant an excellent place to sit and people watch. At night the opportunities to do just that grow exponentially as numerous tourists typically flood the area looking for a place to eat.

In 2007 we celebrated my 51st birthday at the Ostria Café and had an excellent meal, a delicious birthday cake, and plenty of fun as well. Assuming you take our advice and visit this brilliant estiatorio, please do ask for Eleni and let her know that Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! Whether you do that or not, I’m certain you’ll be glad you stopped to eat there, and I have no doubt you’ll want to return for more of Eleni’s superb cooking and the entire family's sincere hospitality.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

The Akrogiali Estiatorio in Patitiri

2011-05-13T19:30:00Z

The port town of Patitiri abounds with restaurants and tavernas, so many that it really is a challenge to visit them all, even if you'll be on the island for a fortnight or more. In our many trips to Alonnisos we've never tried to sample the offerings of numerous restaurants, but have instead adopted the approach of frequenting those establishments that we already "know" serve great food and provide excellent service.

There are three Patitiri restaurants in particular that we visit on a regular basis, and in this post I'll focus on the Akrogiali Estiatorio, which is owned and operated by Pasxalis Diniakos and his wife, Eleni (pictured to your right). The restaurant was originally run by his mother, Nina, so Pasxalis grew up in the business and really knows how to properly manage a restaurant. This is clearly evidenced by the fact that it's very rare to find an empty table at the Akrogiali, and in the high season you'd be wise to get there before 8:30 p.m. or you'll definitely have to wait to be seated.

Even with such popularity, however, you won't find Pasxalis making any overt attempt to speed you out of his restaurant so he can seat the next customers. In my experience this is because he really does believe in practicing "filoxenia" (Greek, for hospitality), and wants you to be completely satisfied with your dining experience. Every since the first time we ate there in 2000 we've been welcomed like family, and that exceptional treatment combined with the delicious food that's served there makes Akrogiali a place we return to again and again.

The Menu

Open for lunch and dinner meals, the Akrogiali has a good-size menu that includes both hot and cold appetizers, and a full range of fresh salads as well. Their Skordalia (garlic spread) is always freshly prepared, as is their Meletzana Salata (eggplant spread), which is in our view the best on the island. As for entrees, Eleni makes fantastic oven-baked dishes such as Moussakas, Lemon Chicken, and Lamb Kleftiko. Pasxalis is also quite adept on the grill, making some of the best Souvlakia (kebobs) you'll find on the island, as well as tasty lamb chops and pork chops. It is in the seafood arena that Pasxalis really shines, as he always has a tremendous selection of both fresh and frozen fish, as well as a broad assortment of shellfish. My mother-in-law Elaine is particularly fond of the steamed Mussells in Wine dish, their Atharina (see photo to your left), and also their Shrimp Saganaki. Our favorite dish at Akrogiali is a fresh Swordfish Steak (when available), and we've also enjoyed the Lamb Kleftiko.

Atmosphere

The Akrogiali Estiatorio is located right on the waterfront in Patitiri, so it provides an excellent view of the harbor. In the evening it becomes a very lively place, with loads of people walking down the promenade checking out the sights and trying to decide where to eat. The picture to your right, which Andrea took from our table on the evening of a full moon, gives you a good idea of the view this restaurant offers. The Akrogiali seats perhaps 30 - 50 patrons at a time, which makes it more of a "personal" place than other, larger restaurants on the island. We celebrated my 50th birthday there in 2006 and had a grand time indeed.

Should you take our advice and visit this wonderful estiatorio, please do ask for Pasxalis and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! You won't regret your decision to have a meal there, and my guess is, you'll want to go back again and again.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

The Flisvos Estiatorio in Patitiri

2011-05-08T17:21:00Z

Another favorite restaurant of ours in Patitiri is the Flisvos Estiatorio, which is owned and operated by Christos Papachristos. His son Thanassis (pictured to your right) is in charge of the kitchen, and at times his brother Valantis assists him.

During the high season his lovely daughter, Eleni, usually visits for at least a fortnight from England (she is pictured to the left between Andrea and I), and also helps out in the restaurant. She is always accompanied by her son, Christos, a very bright little fellow who speaks fluent Greek and English as well despite being just a young boy.

In all of our visits to Alonnisos we've never met a more close-knit and friendly Greek family than the Papachristos, nor have we ever encountered any group of Greeks who display more filoxenia (Greek for hospitality) than they do. Truly, whenever Andrea and I walk into the restaurant we are always greeted very warmly, and treated like friends of the family.

Flisvos is a very novel restaurant in Alonnisos because the primary seating area is right on the waterfront under a very sturdy tent (see photo to your right), but the kitchen is actually located in a building about 50 meters away. This arrangement requires Christos and other waiters to continually dodge traffic as they walk briskly back and forth to retrieve food from the kitchen and deliver it to the tables. During high season when the seating area is filled to capacity it’s a rare moment when they aren’t moving back and forth. While this is very hard work, the fact is Christos thrives in this environment because it’s so very obvious that he loves his work, and is very grateful for his customers.

Over the years Christos (pictured to your left) has particularly endeared himself to British visitors, some of whom have a habit of gifting him with new pairs of suspenders (or “braces” in the UK) every year. This closeness with Brits is even more interesting when one considers that he actually speaks just a wee bit of English. In my view the close relationship is in some way based on the joy that he brings to his work, as it serves to put people at ease in his company and inspire them to return again and again. One of our favorite things to experience at Flisvos is listening to Christos sing happily in Greek while serving his customers. If you stay on the island for more than a few days you’ll notice that you start to see a lot of the same faces seated at this restaurant, and that’s confirmation of the quality and value it offers.

The Menu

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Flisvos has a very broad menu with numerous types of dishes. Breakfast meals include ham and egg dishes, a variety of omelets, juices, and more. The lunch and dinner menus include hot and cold appetizers and numerous salads as well. While Greece isn’t known for its pizza, in our view the pizzas at Flisvos are every bit as good as some we’ve had in the U.S., and even in Italy for that matter. As for the entrees, you’ll be satisfied with any of the oven-cooked meals they offer. We particularly like their “Lamb in Clay Bowl,” and they also offer the same dish with goat or beef. Just about every time we eat there we order “horta” or “vlita,” (pictured to your right) which is a spinach-like vegetable served in olive oil.

Atmosphere

Flisvos is located directly on the waterfront in Patitiri. The photo to your left gives you a perspective of the restaurant from harbor side of it. Because Flisvos is directly in front of where the majority of the hydrofoils and day-boats arrive, it is always right in the middle of all the action. This is especially the case at night as both tourists and locals stroll around the waterfront looking for food and/or entertainment for the evening. When you’re in Patitiri be sure to give this restaurant a try; I’m confident you won’t regret it.

To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.

Kastro Restaurant in the Old Village

2011-05-05T22:00:00Z

Our favorite restaurant ("Estiatorio" in Greek) in the Old Village of Alonnisos is called "Kastro," which in English means "The Castle." It is centrally located along a major walkway in the village, and during the summer is one of the most popular restaurants in the Old Village, if not on the entire island. We eat dinners there on a regular basis, and occasionally have gotten big groups together for parties. The picture to the right is one taken during a dinner a few years ago to celebrate my 49th birthday.

In my view there are three primary reasons for Kastro's continued success over the years. First and foremost, the food is excellent (more about that in a moment), second, the atmosphere is vibrant, and third, the owner, Nectarios (the very tall guy in the picture on your left) is a professional restaurateur who is dedicated to making sure his customers are completely satisfied with their dining experience. Part of this is a commitment to making sure that food orders are filled as promptly as possible - to assist in meeting this objective, back in 2007 he became the first restaurant owner on the island to install a state-of-the art wireless ordering system that allows the kitchen to start preparing orders while Nectarios is entering them right at the table via a touch-screen order entry pad.

Andrea and I originally met Nectarios back in 2002, and since that time have come to consider him as a very dear friend. Unlike some other restaurant owners in Greece we've met who we feel "feign" friendliness, it's obvious that Nectarios really does like foreign visitors to the island, and is very grateful when they choose to eat at his restaurant. He truly embodies the spirit of the Greek term "filoxenia" (friendship and hospitality to foreigners). The picture to your right was taken during the summer of 2010, and in addition to Nectarios includes my in-laws Elaine & Peter Cunningham. It was late in the season, so we had a rare opportunity to have a long and enjoyable conversation with our dear friend.

The Menu

The dish that Kastro is most known for is Nectarios' renowned "roast pork on a spit" called Kontosoufli. Other available foods include grilled chicken, lamb chops, swordfish, calamari, a host of tasty hot and cold appetizers, and a full range of fresh salads as well. In addition, one of Nectarios' most popular appetizers is flaming Saganaki cheese. Click on this link to see a brief YouTube video of him preparing and delivering that dish to a customer during August of 2011. While other restaurants offer similar types of food, from our experience there is certainly no better grilled food in Alonnisos.

Nectarios also has a nice selection of bottled wines, plus the usual beers typically found in restaurants in Greece (i.e., Amstel, Heineken, and Mythos). I can honestly say we've never had a bad meal at Kastro, and in the rare instances where something we ordered wasn't exactly what we wanted, Nectarios made sure that we were fully satisfied in the end. To view a portion of the Kastro's extensive menu, click here.

Atmosphere

As I indicated earlier, the ambiance of the place is very lively, and particularly so during the high tourist season. On the very busy nights there is a constant parade of people strolling through the village checking out the sites and looking for a spot to eat. There's probably no better place for people watching at that time of night in Alonnisos. Because of the popularity of Kastro, there are times when one has to wait for a while to get a table, and if you happen to experience this rest assured that in our experience the meal will be well worth the wait. One way to make sure you'll get seated is to arrive prior to the big evening rush, which usually begins after about 8:30 p.m.

One other thing, sometimes later in the tourist season (late August/early September) when business slows down quite a bit, Nectarios will occasionally pick up his bouzouki (which he's played since he was a boy) and play traditional Greek songs. I had never heard him play over the many years I've known him, but finally got the chance in 2009 when I saw entertain along with his friends Vangelis and Yiannis accompanying him. He is tremendously talented, and his friends are very gifted musicians as well. To see a YouTube video showing parts of the impromptu concert I heard that night, click here.

To learn more about Kastro you can visit the restaurant's website by clicking here. Finally, when you do visit Kastro please feel free to greet Nectarios by name (i.e., Nectario [drop the "s"]), and tell him Jeff & Andrea sent you!