The Alonnisos Insider Site
About the Writer
Jeff Maziarek is an author and inspirational speaker. He fell in love with Alonnisos when he first visited the island in 1997, and now considers it his second home.
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Welcome to the "Alonnisos Insider" Site
Welcome to the Alonnisos Insider Site! As a frequent visitor to Greece (i.e., 10 trips between 1997 and 2010) I've learned many things about traveling there, and am particularly knowledgeable about the island of Alonnisos. My primary intention with this website is to provide readers with valuable insights into the island itself, including guidance with respect to: - The primary methods of getting to Alonnisos
- Detailed information about what to see and do when visiting there
- Courtesy listings for rooms, studios and homes available for rent on the island
The best way to use the site is to refer to the Category Archives box to your left, as it provides a summary of all topics that are covered. If you have any questions regarding anything on this site, or have specific questions about Alonnisos, please feel free to contact me via email by clicking here. If you have found value in this website and are a member of Facebook, please click on this link to be taken to the Alonnisos Insider page on Facebook, where you can choose to "Like" the site. This will help us to spread the word about the Alonnisos Insider. Thanks! Also please note that I've placed 82 beautiful photos of Alonnisos on that Facebook page, so do check them out when you have a chance.
Important Notice: The date and time stamp at the bottom of every post is not always reflective of the "newness" of the information shared, as I regularly update older posts after every trip to Greece. Finally, please note that to keep this site "pure" none of the links on this site provide compensation to me or this website for any "click-throughs" made on your part.
Helios Restaurant & Bar in Patitiri
During our 2011 trip to Alonnisos we heard from several friends and from my in-laws as well, that we really needed to have a meal at the Helios Restaurant & Bar in the port town of Patitiri. They essentially raved about the quality of the food prepared there, and also remarked about the diverse nature of the menu. We eventually made it to Helios during the final week of our trip, and I must say that our dining experience there actually exceeded our expectations. The food was simply excellent in every respect and despite the fact that every table was filled, the service was quite solid that night as well.
Helios is also affectionately known by its regular customers as "Andy’s Bar" in honor of the owner and chef. Originating from Berlin, Andy (pictured to your right) is a professional chef who has extensive experience in preparing a wide range of gourmet dishes. My dear friend, "Ilias the Waiter," tells me that Andy spent four years in a top quality cooking school, and he also worked for several years as a chef in Italy prior to finding his way to Greece.
The night we visited Helios I ordered a Chicken Caesar Wrap that was perfectly prepared, and Andrea had a pasta dish that she greatly enjoyed. I don't recall what my in-laws ate that evening, but I do remember they, too, were very satisfied with their meals. Unfortunately, I also cannot recall the specifics of the menu, but I do know there were appetizers, salads, and entrees that (to my knowledge) are not available anywhere else on the island. That makes Helios a great alternative restaurant to dine at should you be ready to eat something beyond traditional Greek faire.
Helios also features a wide assortment of wines, beer, and hard liquor, and liqueurs. So, even if you're not ready for a meal it's worth your time to stop by and have a cocktail, or perhaps a coffee drink or some other beverage. I can assure you that both Andy and his girlfriend, Irini, (pictured to your left) will be very happy to welcome you. And, between them and their very efficient and entertaining waiter, Ivan, they will be certain to make your visit a very satisfying and enjoyable one.
Helios is located directly above the port of Patiri as you stand at point where the Port Police office is located in the center of the harbor. The restaurant is accessible from a set of steps on either road leading up from the port itself (the road is like a horseshoe, with the bottom of the shoe being the port).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Helios is also affectionately known by its regular customers as "Andy’s Bar" in honor of the owner and chef. Originating from Berlin, Andy (pictured to your right) is a professional chef who has extensive experience in preparing a wide range of gourmet dishes. My dear friend, "Ilias the Waiter," tells me that Andy spent four years in a top quality cooking school, and he also worked for several years as a chef in Italy prior to finding his way to Greece. The night we visited Helios I ordered a Chicken Caesar Wrap that was perfectly prepared, and Andrea had a pasta dish that she greatly enjoyed. I don't recall what my in-laws ate that evening, but I do remember they, too, were very satisfied with their meals. Unfortunately, I also cannot recall the specifics of the menu, but I do know there were appetizers, salads, and entrees that (to my knowledge) are not available anywhere else on the island. That makes Helios a great alternative restaurant to dine at should you be ready to eat something beyond traditional Greek faire.
Helios also features a wide assortment of wines, beer, and hard liquor, and liqueurs. So, even if you're not ready for a meal it's worth your time to stop by and have a cocktail, or perhaps a coffee drink or some other beverage. I can assure you that both Andy and his girlfriend, Irini, (pictured to your left) will be very happy to welcome you. And, between them and their very efficient and entertaining waiter, Ivan, they will be certain to make your visit a very satisfying and enjoyable one. Helios is located directly above the port of Patiri as you stand at point where the Port Police office is located in the center of the harbor. The restaurant is accessible from a set of steps on either road leading up from the port itself (the road is like a horseshoe, with the bottom of the shoe being the port).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Recommended Hotel near Athens Airport - Peri's Hotel
On our return from Alonnisos in September 2011, we wanted to stay at a hotel near the Athens Venizelos Airport, rather than at our usual hotel in the Plaka area of the city. However, we had no desire to spend a lot of money given that we would only be in the room a short time. Our friend Shirley McDaniel, a former home owner on Alonnisos and a regular visitor to the Greece, recommended that we stay at a place called Peri’s Hotel (see photo to your right). It’s located about 10 minutes drive from the north gate of the airport. 
Built in 2004, it features 12 rooms (see sample room photo to your left), equipped with bathroom, fridge, TV, telephone, air conditioning, a hair dryer, and central heating. It also offers free wireless Internet access (WI-FI) in the lobby, and the hotel serves continental breakfast between 08.00 a.m. to 10.00 a.m. Transfer from and to the airport is available (free shuttle between 07:00 a.m. to 23:30 p.m.) 
We were met at the airport by a very friendly man named Anthony (pictured to your right with my wife) who whisked us off to this small but well equipped hotel. Although located in an out-of-the-way neighborhood, there is a very nice restaurant about four blocks from the hotel (10 minute walk roughly), though please note that one of those blocks is a dirt road. If you have more time, you can also walk about five blocks back to the main road, and then meander about 20 minutes more to the right and you'll find yourself at the sea front where there are numerous restaurants available. Please note that I actually took that walk and while the end-point (i.e., the sea) is very nice, the route itself isn't all that wonderful as the sidewalk actually disappears in a couple of places (very common in Greece) and also isn't very wide in spots.Now that we've discovered Peri's Hotel, there's no doubt in our minds that the next time we need to stay near the Athens airport (as opposed to the city center), we will be certain to book a room at this quaint little hotel. I cannot say enough about how nice and welcoming Anthony was, and the same goes for the owner Theodoros. At the price of just 80 Euros for a double room with breakfast (as of 9-11-2011), it offers much greater value in my view as compared to other alternatives that are nearer to the airport, such as the Sofitel (approx. 200 - 300 Euros) or the Holiday Inn (approx. 127 Euros or more).
For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Peri's Hotel via email by clicking here. The hotel also can be reached by phone at (+30) 22940 83763 or click on this link to visit the Peri's Hotel website.
If you do choose to stay at this nice little hotel, please do give our best regards to Anthony, and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago say hello.
Albedo Travel in Alonnisos
In particular, prior to departing on our trip I wrote an email to Albedo Travel to ask a question about purchasing boat tickets for our return trip to the Greek mainland. Within less than 24-hours I received a very friendly reply to my inquiry from the owner, Kostas Efstathiou. The speed of the response, was, in all honesty, not something I've been accustomed to when contacting businesses in Greece. Perhaps that's been due to the language barrier. In any event, once we arrived in Alonnisos I stopped at Albedo Travel to meet Kostas in person, and found him to be a wonderful person who is clearly dedicated to providing excellent service to his customers.
Albedo Travel has been in business since 1996 and offers a wide range of services, including booking accommodations for hotels, studios/apartments, and villas, plus renting cars and motorbikes, and offering guided walking tours In addition, Kostas offers boat trips, including two Marine Park Cruises (one that stops on the island of Kyra Panagia and another on Skantzoura island), and in 2012 he plans to add guided kayak tours (see photo to your left). Other tours include an all day bus tour of Alonnisos on a comfortable, air-conditioned coach bus. Kostas also works with other businesses on the island to accommodate special interest holidays related to Yoga practice and creative painting. To learn more about the services offered by Albedo Travel, click here to visit the company's website. To contact Kostas Efstathiou by phone on Alonnisos during the summer season call (30) 24240-65804; during the winter he can be reached in Athens at (30) 210-8062826.
You can also reach Albedo Travel via email by clicking here.
Riding and Renting a Motorbike on Alonnisos
During each of my ten stays on Alonnisos one of my very favorite things is riding a motorbike up and down the island's twisting roads, and navigating around the numerous obstacles that one encounters while cruising through the crowded streets of the port town of Patitiri. With respect to the latter, my wife and I always joke that driving through Patitiri is like playing a computer video game because all sorts of obstacles just appear at the last moment to keep you on your toes.
There are two particular stretches of the tarmac that are the most enjoyable in my view, the first being the views on the road between the Old Village and Patitiri (see picture to the left), and the second being those on the road down to the port town of Steni Vala (photo below right). In both cases the vistas are just amazing, and I truly have never tired of seeing these sights no matter how many times I driven up and down these roads. There's 
also something magical about the smell of the pine forests as you cruise down the road with the wind blowing softly on your face. There are times during the winter here in Chicago that I long for the scent of those beautiful pines and the visual treats that await me around every corner on the roads of Alonnisos.
To see a brief YouTube video of what driving the road down to Steni Vala is like, click here. The music clip attached to it is from a song called "Foreign Land" performed by a Paris, France-based rock and roll band called Televox (www.televoxmusic.com). The band is led by my good friend Lorenz Plassman, who I met on Alonnisos in 2007, and who gave me permission to use this copyrighted audio content.
How Safe is Riding a Motorbike on Alonnisos?
If you are a person who is comfortable riding a two-wheeled vehicle, in my view there is simply no better way to experience the island than to rent a motorbike. One of the first questions that you may ask is, "is it dangerous?" Honestly, yes, it can be if one is an inexperienced rider. As the driver, however, you are the one who is ultimately in control of your destiny. So, if you drive carefully, and stay sober while driving (this is critical on these roads), your chances of getting into an accident on Alonnisos are no worse than they are anywhere else, and perhaps less simply because there are dramatically less vehicles on the entire island than one normally would encounter at any one moment in a typical medium to large-size European or U.S. city.
So, assuming you are up for the challenge, the only thing you need to figure out is, who on Alonnisos to rent your motorbike from. In this regard, there are numerous businesses that rent them on the island, and I'm sure that for the most part you'd probably be satisfied with any number of them. There is, however, one particular business that I have rented from for over ten years, and every time I return I don't hesitate in going right back to them. The business I refer to is I & M Motorbike Rental, and the proprietors are Ilias and Maria.
They live in Volos during the winter, but come to spend every summer in Alonnisos where they offer a great assortment of motorbikes, backed by some of the friendliest service you'll find anywhere on the island. I first
rented from Ilias back in 1997, and since then he and his wife Maria have always provided me with a quality ride at a competitive price. More importantly, anytime I've experienced a problem (such as a flat tire), he's been excellent about getting me back on the road as quickly as possible. I cannot say enough about the character and hospitality of Ilias and Maria, and for that reason I highly recommend their rental business. In fact, during my visit in 2009 I suggested I&M to visitors from Italy and the U.S. who I had met while there and all of them reported complete satisfaction.
Just so you know, they offer both automatic transmission mopeds (see above) and automatic with shift (no clutch) models such as the famous Honda Cub (see photo at right). In addition, if you're into larger, traditional motorcycles, they can accommodate your needs there as well.
Finding I&M Motorbike Rental
I&M's original location is in Patitiri on what we call "the back street." The photo to your left of Ilias and his father, Apostolis, provides some insight as to what the storefront looks like. It's easy to find because there's a large number of motorbikes parked across the street from it. To contact I&M by phone call (30) 2424-065010 (where 30 is the country code). To reserve a motorbike via email click here.
During 2010 I&M built another facility out-island on the main road between the first road to Chrissi Milia, and the road to Kokkino Kastro beach. This larger facility (see photo to your right) is located on the left side of the road when you are coming from the direction of Patitiri. It is more convenient for people who are staying at the Alonnisos Hotel and other rental properties in the area. In addition to motorbikes this facility offers cars for rent.
Happy motoring, but just be careful out there!
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
also something magical about the smell of the pine forests as you cruise down the road with the wind blowing softly on your face. There are times during the winter here in Chicago that I long for the scent of those beautiful pines and the visual treats that await me around every corner on the roads of Alonnisos. To see a brief YouTube video of what driving the road down to Steni Vala is like, click here. The music clip attached to it is from a song called "Foreign Land" performed by a Paris, France-based rock and roll band called Televox (www.televoxmusic.com). The band is led by my good friend Lorenz Plassman, who I met on Alonnisos in 2007, and who gave me permission to use this copyrighted audio content.
How Safe is Riding a Motorbike on Alonnisos?
If you are a person who is comfortable riding a two-wheeled vehicle, in my view there is simply no better way to experience the island than to rent a motorbike. One of the first questions that you may ask is, "is it dangerous?" Honestly, yes, it can be if one is an inexperienced rider. As the driver, however, you are the one who is ultimately in control of your destiny. So, if you drive carefully, and stay sober while driving (this is critical on these roads), your chances of getting into an accident on Alonnisos are no worse than they are anywhere else, and perhaps less simply because there are dramatically less vehicles on the entire island than one normally would encounter at any one moment in a typical medium to large-size European or U.S. city.
So, assuming you are up for the challenge, the only thing you need to figure out is, who on Alonnisos to rent your motorbike from. In this regard, there are numerous businesses that rent them on the island, and I'm sure that for the most part you'd probably be satisfied with any number of them. There is, however, one particular business that I have rented from for over ten years, and every time I return I don't hesitate in going right back to them. The business I refer to is I & M Motorbike Rental, and the proprietors are Ilias and Maria.
They live in Volos during the winter, but come to spend every summer in Alonnisos where they offer a great assortment of motorbikes, backed by some of the friendliest service you'll find anywhere on the island. I first
rented from Ilias back in 1997, and since then he and his wife Maria have always provided me with a quality ride at a competitive price. More importantly, anytime I've experienced a problem (such as a flat tire), he's been excellent about getting me back on the road as quickly as possible. I cannot say enough about the character and hospitality of Ilias and Maria, and for that reason I highly recommend their rental business. In fact, during my visit in 2009 I suggested I&M to visitors from Italy and the U.S. who I had met while there and all of them reported complete satisfaction.
Finding I&M Motorbike Rental
I&M's original location is in Patitiri on what we call "the back street." The photo to your left of Ilias and his father, Apostolis, provides some insight as to what the storefront looks like. It's easy to find because there's a large number of motorbikes parked across the street from it. To contact I&M by phone call (30) 2424-065010 (where 30 is the country code). To reserve a motorbike via email click here.
Happy motoring, but just be careful out there!
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Milia Bay/Beach and the Milia Bay Hotel-Apartments
Like most beaches in Alonnisos, Milia Bay is comprised of stones as opposed to sand (see photo below left), so for optimum comfort you’ll either need to rent a beach chair (around 12 Euros with umbrella in 2010), use a heavy-duty beach mat, or have an air mattress (lie-low in the UK) to lie on. To see a brief YouTube video that shows a view of this beautiful beach from the sea, click here.
Milia Bay Hotel and Apartments
The Milia Bay Hotel/Apartments are owned and operated by a very friendly woman named Vivian, along with her very hospitable son Andreas and
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Edem Estiatorio & Café in Patitiri
Recently I learned that a very nice restaurant in Patitiri, previously called "Argo," has reopened this summer as the Edem Restaurant & Café (see photo to your right). We ate at the original Argo restaurant some years ago and found the food to be very good. In addition, the view from the restaurant is quite stunning, as the property faces east toward the uninhabited islands known as "The Two Brothers." 
Our dear friend "Ilias the waiter," who we originally met in 2005, chose to come back to Alonnisos this summer (he worked in Karpathos the past two summers) to work at Edem and help them re-launch the restaurant. Ilias (pictured on the left with Andrea and me) emailed me in June to say that the original owners of Argo have done a great job in creating a menu that offers both high quality food and reasonable prices as well. Specific entrees available at Edem include: lamb baked in paper, grandmama's meatballs, giuvetzi, roast beef al a greca, and on the weekends, pork gyros and spit roast chicken. For seafood lovers, they also offer lobster spaghetti, crawfish spaghetti, grilled stuffed squid, octopus stew and more. Traditional Greek dishes include mousaka, snapper filled stew, spezzofai, cheese pie, pasticcio, and stuffed tomatoes and peppers.
Nestled among many beautiful pine trees that overlook Patitiri harbor, the Edem Restaurant & Cafe is located near the area where the large ferry boats arrive in Alonnisos. From the taxi stand/bus stop in Patitiri, just walk straight down the road towards the sea and at the end, on your left, are stairs that will take you directly up to the restaurant. When you arrive, please be sure to ask for Ilias (there is no better waiter in Greece!) and let him know that Jeff & Andi sent you. To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Italian Gelateria in Patitiri & the Old Village
Prior to the summer tourist season in 2007 they sold the business to two other Italians who now live on the island full-time, Barbara and Giorgia (pictured to the right), but not before Jana taught them everything they needed to know about making the ice cream with the same level of quality and taste that customers had become accustomed to over the years.
When you do visit Alonnisos and find your sweet tooth calling you after dinner (or at any other time), rest assured that you can't go wrong stopping by either location of the Gelateria. And, when you do see Giorgia, Matilda, or Barbara, please tell them Jeff and Andrea from the USA send her our best regards. Bon appetit.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Old Village - Taverna Peri Orexios
Note that in addition to being seated and eating a meal at the restaurant, Taverna Peri Orexios offers both carry-out and delivery service if you happen to be staying in the Old Village.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Rental Rooms at Megalos Mourtias Beach
The rooms (see photo to your left) are located perhaps just 50 meters from the taverna, so you can walk out your door and then be seated and ordering a meal in just a couple of minutes or less. The distance to the beach itself at Megalos Mourtias is essentially the same, which makes it a great place to stay if you really enjoy spending time near the ocean. For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Ria and Yiannis Anagnostou via email by clicking here. When contacting them please mention the code ABMMR so they know you learned about these rental rooms on the Alonnisos Insider Site. Thanks.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant in Patitiri
Another restaurant in Patitiri that I recommend is the Pleiades Restaurant & Bar, which is part of the Pleiades Hotel that overlooks the harbor in the main port of Patitiri. We have eaten there a couple of times during our most recent trips, and each time found both the food and the service to be excellent. It is owned and operated by two very nice gentlemen named Jorgos (George) and Tony, and the restaurant itself is a very laid back place that offers a great selection of local and ethnic dishes, fresh salads, a full bar, and desserts and coffees as well. Recently the owners made some enhancements to the restaurant, including the addition of a beautiful new stone bar and a pergola. The place also offers tremendous views of the port, and on a regular basis in the summer there is live entertainment, including performances by my friend Chester Smith and his pal Chris Browne, also known as The
Barefoot Blues Band. In addition to the restaurant, George and Tony rent out four rooms and five studios, all of which are attractively furnished and feature excellent views of the port of Alonnisos and the islets beyond. All of the rooms and studios include a refrigerator, air conditioning, an electric kettle, and a TV.
To learn more about the Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant, visit this link.
Lefto Gialos Beach and the Eleonas Estiatorio
When we initially visited this beach back in 1997 it was a lot different than it is today. The road wasn’t paved and in spots was very rough-going. In addition, there was just one restaurant, and its source of electricity was a gas-powered generator because power lines had not yet been extended to that area of the island. Back then it was so rustic there was a goat herder who regularly brought his flock down from the hills to drink water from a trough located right on the upper portion of the beach. I’ll never forget one day when I was lying on the beach almost asleep and I heard the sound of many ringing bells. I opened my eyes and was surrounded by perhaps 50 goats! Don't worry though, the goats are no longer brought down to that area to drink.
The Eleonas Estiatorio
Currently there are two restaurants at Lefto Gialos, and each of them has its own charm and following. We are particularly fond of the Eleonas Estiatorio because the food and service is always excellent, and, we have personally known the owners, Nikos and Magda, and their family, for more than thirteen years.
When we initially met Nikos and Magda in 1997, they treated us with very genuine filoxenia (Greek for hospitality), and each time we return we are treated like family. Nikos has also been very helpful to me in my feeble attempts at learning to speak Greek, often instructing me in the midst of serving our food! (photo to your left is of Nikos and me in 2006). During the busiest part of the tourist season Eleonas is always filled with customers, but even so we usually are able to get a table fairly quickly. If by chance you do have to wait for a spell, rest assured that your meals will be well worth the wait.
The Menu
Desserts are likewise available, as are a selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well. While not a daily menu item, one very sweet treat that Eleonas makes occasionally is called “fuskakia,” or “little blisters,” which are little balls of dough deep-fried and then sweetened with honey, and I believe a bit of cinnamon flavor as well. Trust me; it’s impossible to eat just one of them!
Atmosphere
To learn more about Eleonas, visit their website in English, or in Greek.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Megalos Mourtias Beach and the Megalo Mourtia Taverna
One word of caution when you begin to carve out your place on the beach is that you must be aware that when a large ferry passes by, even one a couple kilometers or more out into the sea, eventually some very large waves that were generated by the ship's wake make their way to shore. When that happens, if you have set your towel, chair or lie-low too close to the water's edge you are definitely going to get wet! It's actually quite comical to watch this happen to unsuspecting newcomers, as it always results in a scramble to higher ground. To see a brief YouTube video that shows the view you'll get to experience at this lovely beach click here.
The Megalo Mourtia Taverna
The Megalo Mourtia Taverna (entrance from the beach is shown to your left) is our favorite taverna on the beach. It is owned and operated by a wonderful couple, Yiannis & Ria, who are assisted by their children Kelly and Dimitris, as well as various other family members. We first met Yiannis & Ria (pictured to your right along with Kelly) back in
The Menu
Atmosphere
From our experience, eating (or drinking ) at this establishment is like sitting down with good friends. The combination of excellent food and solid service makes this taverna one that you will want to return to whenever you visit the beach at Megalos Mourtias. When you do visit, please do give our regards to Yiannis & Ria, and tell them Jeff and Andrea sent you!
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Alonnisos Loses a Long-standing Home Owner - Nicoletta Trenta
Although this blog’s focus is to provide a wide variety of information about Alonnisos, once again I feel compelled to post news about the recent passing of a beloved friend on the island who we met more than a decade ago. Her name was Nicoletta Trenta, and she lived in Torino, Italy, but owned a home in the Old Village area of Alonnisos for over twenty years. She usually spent entire summers on the island, and was known and loved by people everywhere on the island.
Andrea and I originally met Nicoletta (pictured between us to your right) during the summer of 2000, as her home was located just behind the rental house we were using that summer. We took an instant liking to her, and just about every evening after returning from my hike to/from Micros Mourtias beach I'd walk down to Nicoletta's house and we'd have a cocktail together and a wonderful conversation. She always made me laugh like crazy; in fact, she often made everyone around her laugh because she had such an amazing sense of humor. When she combined her beautiful Italian accent with her sometimes interesting use of the English language, there were many times she was downright hysterical to listen to. She always made me smile, and because of it I even included her name in the acknowledgments pages of my first book.
Over the ten years we knew her, we had the pleasure of spending many great times with her, and she always kept us entertained. She really did revel in making people happy, and at times she also enjoyed being ornery just for the hell of it; the truth is we loved her either way. The last time we saw Nicoletta was in the summer of 2009, and it was at that time that she began to have some health challenges, though she never told anyone what was at issue. Despite those health problems, she remained quite busy and active that summer, and even joined us one time when we took a boating trip on my in-laws' caique (see photo to your left of her and my step father-in-law Peter).
To say that I personally will miss Nicoletta's presence on Alonnisos would be a major understatement. Andi and I both loved her like she was family, and the thought of returning to the island and not seeing her big smile and getting a warm hug and "kiss-kiss" from her is not a pleasant one. Nicoletta truly was part of the very fabric of the island for all the years she visited there, and there is no doubt she will be sorely missed by anyone who had the great pleasure to know her.
Andrea and I originally met Nicoletta (pictured between us to your right) during the summer of 2000, as her home was located just behind the rental house we were using that summer. We took an instant liking to her, and just about every evening after returning from my hike to/from Micros Mourtias beach I'd walk down to Nicoletta's house and we'd have a cocktail together and a wonderful conversation. She always made me laugh like crazy; in fact, she often made everyone around her laugh because she had such an amazing sense of humor. When she combined her beautiful Italian accent with her sometimes interesting use of the English language, there were many times she was downright hysterical to listen to. She always made me smile, and because of it I even included her name in the acknowledgments pages of my first book. Over the ten years we knew her, we had the pleasure of spending many great times with her, and she always kept us entertained. She really did revel in making people happy, and at times she also enjoyed being ornery just for the hell of it; the truth is we loved her either way. The last time we saw Nicoletta was in the summer of 2009, and it was at that time that she began to have some health challenges, though she never told anyone what was at issue. Despite those health problems, she remained quite busy and active that summer, and even joined us one time when we took a boating trip on my in-laws' caique (see photo to your left of her and my step father-in-law Peter). To say that I personally will miss Nicoletta's presence on Alonnisos would be a major understatement. Andi and I both loved her like she was family, and the thought of returning to the island and not seeing her big smile and getting a warm hug and "kiss-kiss" from her is not a pleasant one. Nicoletta truly was part of the very fabric of the island for all the years she visited there, and there is no doubt she will be sorely missed by anyone who had the great pleasure to know her.
The Ostria Café and Estiatorio in Patitiri
The restaurant we visit most often in Patitiri is called the Ostria Café, and it is operated by Eleni Anagnostou-Cupcea and her husband Victor. Her mother, Maria, also plays a big role in running the business. We originally met Eleni in 2000 when we spent the entire summer in Alonnisos so that I could work on my first book, and over the years she has become a dear friend to us.
Based on the number of tables, the Ostria Café is one of the largest restaurants in Patitiri, but just because it can serve so many people at once doesn’t in any way mean that you won’t get high quality meals. On the contrary, all dishes are cooked to order and are, in our experience, always very delicious. In addition, since Eleni has worked in this restaurant since she was a young girl, she knows how to run it very efficiently, and works very hard to make sure that high levels of customer service and food quality are always maintained. Victor is the head waiter and there’s none better on the island. When we first met him a few years ago we were very impressed with his command of multiple languages, including his native Russian, Greek, English (very fluent), some Italian & German, and perhaps even more as I write this! (The picture above of the four of us was taken in the summer of 2007.)
The Menu
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the Ostria Café has an expansive menu, so large in fact that I’m amazed Eleni can make so many different types of food available on a daily basis! Breakfast meals include ham and egg dishes, a wide assortment of omelets, juices, and more. The lunch and dinner menus include hot and cold appetizers, numerous salads, and pizzas as well.
As for the entrees, it is in this area that Eleni’s fantastic cooking skills are most apparent. Her oven-baked dishes, including some lamb and chicken entrees, are simply wonderful. She also prepares traditional Greek dishes such as Moussakas and Pastitio if you have a preference for those. In addition, once dinner is over there are various dessert options, and the Ostria Café also has a wide selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well.
Atmosphere
The Ostria Café (pictured to your right) is located right on the waterfront in Patitiri very near to where most of the hydrofoils and day-boats arrive, so it is very centrally located and offers a great view of the harbor. It is also a Wireless Access Point if you are traveling with a laptop and need Internet access. The location also makes this restaurant an excellent place to sit and people watch. At night the opportunities to do just that grow exponentially as numerous tourists typically flood the area looking for a place to eat.
In 2007 we celebrated my 51st birthday at the Ostria Café and had an excellent meal, a delicious birthday cake, and plenty of fun as well. Assuming you take our advice and visit this brilliant estiatorio, please do ask for Eleni and let her know that Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! Whether you do that or not, I’m certain you’ll be glad you stopped to eat there, and I have no doubt you’ll want to return for more of Eleni’s superb cooking and the entire family's sincere hospitality.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Menu
As for the entrees, it is in this area that Eleni’s fantastic cooking skills are most apparent. Her oven-baked dishes, including some lamb and chicken entrees, are simply wonderful. She also prepares traditional Greek dishes such as Moussakas and Pastitio if you have a preference for those. In addition, once dinner is over there are various dessert options, and the Ostria Café also has a wide selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well.
Atmosphere
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Akrogiali Estiatorio in Patitiri
Even with such popularity, however, you won't find Pasxalis making any overt attempt to speed you out of his restaurant so he can seat the next customers. In my experience this is because he really does believe in practicing "filoxenia" (Greek, for hospitality), and wants you to be completely satisfied with your dining experience. Every since the first time we ate there in 2000 we've been welcomed like family, and that exceptional treatment combined with the delicious food that's served there makes Akrogiali a place we return to again and again.
The Menu
Atmosphere
Should you take our advice and visit this wonderful estiatorio, please do ask for Pasxalis and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! You won't regret your decision to have a meal there, and my guess is, you'll want to go back again and again.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Flisvos Estiatorio in Patitiri
During the high season his lovely daughter, Eleni, usually visits for at least a fortnight from England (she is pictured to the left between Andrea and I), and also helps out in the restaurant. She is always accompanied by her son, Christos, a very bright little fellow who speaks fluent Greek and English as well despite being just a young boy.
In all of our visits to Alonnisos we've never met a more close-knit and friendly Greek family than the Papachristos, nor have we ever encountered any group of Greeks who display more filoxenia (Greek for hospitality) than they do. Truly, whenever Andrea and I walk into the restaurant we are always greeted very warmly, and treated like friends of the family.
The Menu
Atmosphere
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Kastro Restaurant in the Old Village
Andrea and I originally met Nectarios back in 2002, and since that time have come to consider him as a very dear friend. Unlike some other restaurant owners in Greece we've met who we feel "feign" friendliness, it's obvious that Nectarios really does like foreign visitors to the island, and is very grateful when they choose to eat at his restaurant. He truly embodies the spirit of the Greek term "filoxenia" (friendship and hospitality to foreigners). The picture to your right was taken during the summer of 2010, and in addition to Nectarios includes my in-laws Elaine & Peter Cunningham. It was late in the season, so we had a rare opportunity to have a long and enjoyable conversation with our dear friend. The Menu
The dish that Kastro is most known for is Nectarios' renowned "roast pork on a spit" called Kontosoufli. Other available foods include grilled chicken, lamb chops, swordfish, calamari, a host of tasty hot and cold appetizers, and a full range of fresh salads as well. In addition, one of Nectarios' most popular appetizers is flaming Saganaki cheese. Click on this link to see a brief YouTube video of him preparing and delivering that dish to a customer during August of 2011. While other restaurants offer similar types of food, from our experience there is certainly no better grilled food in Alonnisos.
Nectarios also has a nice selection of bottled wines, plus the usual beers typically found in restaurants in Greece (i.e., Amstel, Heineken, and Mythos). I can honestly say we've never had a bad meal at Kastro, and in the rare instances where something we ordered wasn't exactly what we wanted, Nectarios made sure that we were fully satisfied in the end. To view a portion of the Kastro's extensive menu, click here.
Atmosphere
To learn more about Kastro you can visit the restaurant's website by clicking here. Finally, when you do visit Kastro please feel free to greet Nectarios by name (i.e., Nectario [drop the "s"]), and tell him Jeff & Andrea sent you!
The Old Village of Alonnisos
When we visit Alonnisos we stay in an area that is often referred to as the "lower village," a series of homes further down the mountainside. Though admittedly not quite as quaint, it's a lot quieter and the houses are not so packed
together. It's just a short (though somewhat steep) walk up to the plateia (town square) of the village. There are numerous homes available for rental in this area of the village. One that I am familiar with is owned by Elias Tsoukanas and Bente Keller. For information regarding their lovely traditional Greek island rental home (pictured at right), click here. On several occasions my in-laws have arranged for visitors to rent this home, and in
every instance those who rented it have been really satisfied with the
accommodations. We know Elias and Bente personally,and have always
found them to be very friendly and kind people. If their rental home is
booked, check out other properties listed on this site. 
At night is when the Old Village really comes to life, as it's just an amazing place to walk
around and people watch. We always get a kick out of seeing the style-conscious young women with stiletto heels trying to navigate their way up one of the cobblestone paths in the village. It is very unusual for them to make it the full length of the path without almost tripping once or twice along the way. Ah, the things we do when we're young! During the height of the season, there are always numerous people enjoying their drinks and dinner at a number of establishments that line the walkways of the village, plus a lot of people just walking around and soaking up the lively atmosphere of the place.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Arrival Point in Alonnisos - Patitiri Harbor
If your voyage was on a Flying Cat, you will exit the boat at the rear, if it's a Dolphin it will be near the front of the boat (see picture to the right). As an aside, please note that you may or may not receive any assistance from the boat crew with your luggage. Sometimes you get assistance, sometimes not. This is just typically part of the experience of traveling on hydrofoil boats to the Greek islands.
One notable exception in my experience is a crew-member on one of the Flying Cat vessels. Named Alekos, he has always been exceptionally friendly and very helpful to me and other passengers as well. If you happen to be on Flying Cat 5 or 6 during your trip, Alekos is a large, muscular guy with a big smile who speaks fairly good English. If this physical description isn't enough, you can always look for the person's name-tag to confirm it's him. Every time I run into him he remembers my face and is pleased to see me. If you approach him and introduce yourself I'll bet he'll be very hospitable to you.
Getting to Your Hotel/Pension
If your accommodations are anywhere else on the island other than the Old Village (e.g., Votsi, Milia Bay, Steni Vala), unless you have a friend to drive you, or are part of a tour group handled by one of the travel agencies on the island, there will be no other option but to take a taxi or rent a car.
Relaxing at the Port
Should you choose to visit Flisvos, the proprietor's name is Christos, and he's a wonderful person who loves to entertain with a song now and then. Although he doesn't speak a lot of English, his son Thannasis works with him and is fairly fluent in the language. We are always treated like family at this restaurant, which is one of the key reasons we continue to eat there over the years.
If you choose to stop by the Ostria Cafe, you'll find a very diverse menu for both food and beverages. The owner is Eleni along with her husband Victor and her mother Maria, and Eleni has been a dear friend of ours for over ten years. She speaks excellent English by the way. Please feel free to tell her that Jeff and Andrea from the USA sent you.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Driving to Alonnisos from the UK & Other European Countries
While I personally don't have any insights in this area for you, I know that Dave Court of Ivicourt.com has a page on his incredibly valuable Alonnisos site that talks about the experience he and his wife Gerry have in getting to the island from the UK by car. Click here to access that page, which also includes a link to the Via Michelin website that provides assistance in planning driving trips from anywhere in Europe.
NEL Lines Now Offering Ferry Services from Agios Konstantinos and Volos to Alonnisos
My good friend Nectarios of The Kastro Restaurant in Alonnisos informed me this past weekend (4/3/2011) that the Greek shipping company NEL Lines has begun to offer ferry service to Alonnisos from the mainland ports of Agios Konstantinos and Volos. Details regarding these services follow immediately. (Note: On some websites Agios Konstantinos is spelled "Agios Constantinos").
Agios Konstantinos to Alonnisos
Although the trip takes about 30 - 45 minutes longer on the ferry as opposed to a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat (i.e., Flying Cat or Flying Dolphin), the price for an economy ticket on NEL Lines is just €36 per person versus €50.5/person on the Flying Cat or Dolphin (i.e., 40 percent less). The NEL Lines ferry operating this route is called the Panagia Parou (pictured to your right), which seats up to 573 passengers. To learn more about the amenities offered on this vessel click here.
Volos to Alonnisos
While this trip takes about an 30 - 45 minutes longer on the ferry as opposed to a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat, the price for an economy ticket on NEL Lines is just €33 per person versus €46/person on the Flying Cat or Dolphin (i.e., 39 percent less). The NEL Lines ferry operating this route is called the Alkioni (or "Alkyoni" on the NEL Lines website) (pictured to your left), which seats up to 1,125 passengers. To learn more about the amenities offered on this vessel click here.
Booking Tickets on the NEL Lines Panagia Parou or the Alkioni Ferries
To book passage on either of these ferries, you can go directly to the NEL Lines website by clicking here. You also have the option of using the OpenSeas.gr website to purchase tickets. Both of these sites appear to use the same booking "engine," so you should be okay to use either option.
If you prefer to save a bit of time by sailing on a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat, for more information on booking passage from Agios Konstantinos to Alonnisos click here (page down when you get to the page), and for information on purchasing tickets for the Volos to Alonnisos route click here.
Staying in Agios Konstantinos or Volos
If your arrival time in Agios Konstantinos is such that you are unable to connect with a boat to Alonnisos, click here for information regarding a property I recommend.
In the event your arrival time in Volos is too late to connect with a boat to Alonnisos, click here for information regarding two properties I recommend.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Agios Konstantinos to Alonnisos
Although the trip takes about 30 - 45 minutes longer on the ferry as opposed to a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat (i.e., Flying Cat or Flying Dolphin), the price for an economy ticket on NEL Lines is just €36 per person versus €50.5/person on the Flying Cat or Dolphin (i.e., 40 percent less). The NEL Lines ferry operating this route is called the Panagia Parou (pictured to your right), which seats up to 573 passengers. To learn more about the amenities offered on this vessel click here.Volos to Alonnisos
While this trip takes about an 30 - 45 minutes longer on the ferry as opposed to a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat, the price for an economy ticket on NEL Lines is just €33 per person versus €46/person on the Flying Cat or Dolphin (i.e., 39 percent less). The NEL Lines ferry operating this route is called the Alkioni (or "Alkyoni" on the NEL Lines website) (pictured to your left), which seats up to 1,125 passengers. To learn more about the amenities offered on this vessel click here.Booking Tickets on the NEL Lines Panagia Parou or the Alkioni Ferries
To book passage on either of these ferries, you can go directly to the NEL Lines website by clicking here. You also have the option of using the OpenSeas.gr website to purchase tickets. Both of these sites appear to use the same booking "engine," so you should be okay to use either option.
If you prefer to save a bit of time by sailing on a Hellenic Seaways hydrofoil boat, for more information on booking passage from Agios Konstantinos to Alonnisos click here (page down when you get to the page), and for information on purchasing tickets for the Volos to Alonnisos route click here.
Staying in Agios Konstantinos or Volos
If your arrival time in Agios Konstantinos is such that you are unable to connect with a boat to Alonnisos, click here for information regarding a property I recommend.
In the event your arrival time in Volos is too late to connect with a boat to Alonnisos, click here for information regarding two properties I recommend.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Getting to Alonnisos through Athens via Bus or Taxi to the Port of Kymi
During the summer of 2011 Skyros Shipping Co. will once again be offering services on its Achilleas ferry between the port of Kymi (located on the island of Evia) and Alonnisos. Kymi (sometimes spelled "Kimi") is located about five hours from Athens by coach bus, and the boat ride is just over two hours (an hour shorter than the trip from Agios Konstantinos (or Volos) to Alonnisos and HALF the price. (i.e., €23 per person versus €46/person from Volos to Alonnisos, and €50.5/person from Agios Konstantinos to Alonnisos).To reach Kymi by bus from the Athens airport you will first need to take the X93 bus (Click here for more information about this bus/its fare cost) to the Bus Terminus B bus station in Athens (Click here for more information about this bus station [or "O stathmos," in Greek], and to see the latest long distance bus schedule for buses departing from Bus Terminus B click here. The total time it will take you to get to Kymi from the airport via Bus Terminus B will be perhaps as much as 6 hours, but could be more based on traffic conditions. If you'd prefer to take a taxi to Bus Terminus B, please page down to see information regarding a taxi driver in Athens that I recommend.
The cost of the coach bus to Kymi is €13.80 was of June 2010 (the latest schedule I have). If your arrival time is too late to connect with the Achilleas ferry you will obviously need to book a hotel in Kymi.
One other note, in addition to bus X93 from the airport, you can also reach Athens City Centre via the Metro Train line. Ask the information desk at the airport for directions to the on-site Metro station (it's on the lower level). If you do take the Metro,you'll also need to ask what stop to use in order to facilitate the most direct access to Bus Terminus B for your next travel segment to Kymi. Please note that a one-way ticket on the Metro is approximately €6, and that travel via train gets you to the city centre in perhaps half the time.
To Kymi via Taxi
If you aren't as much concerned about cost as you are about comfort and speed, you also have the option of taking a taxi from the Athens Airport directly to Kymi. Because this is a fairly lengthy distance, the cost of the taxi is about €220. While this is significantly more expensive than bus travel, if two or more people are traveling together the price is much more reasonable, especially considering that the cost of a hotel in Athens is at least €30 - 40 more than one in Kymi. With the taxi you can stay in Kymi, sleep in, and then take the ferry.
If you are interested in taking a taxi, I highly recommend the services of a driver in Athens named Spiros Halkides. Not only is he a great guy, but he also speaks fluent English from his experience in living in New York for many years. Here is his contact information: Telephone: 30-2109944771 (H) & (30)-6944285686(MOBILE) [Note that 30 is the country code for calling Greece.] To visit Spiros' website click here. To contact Spiros via email, click here. Staying in Athens
If you aren't able to make the bus to Kymi, and don't want to spend the extra money to take a taxi, please review the Category Archives (to your left) under "Hotels in Athens" for information regarding a property I recommend. I also provide information about getting to the hotel via city bus from the airport.
Making a Boat Reservation from Kymi to Alonnisos
If you are planning to reach Alonnisos via the Skyros Shipping Co. ferry Achilleas, then prior to your trip you of course need to reserve and pay for tickets. As of the date of this post (3-24-2011), the website OpenSeas.gr is not yet listing the Kymi to Alonnisos route for this tourist season. However, Skyros Shipping is definitely operating the ferry again this summer, so eventually OpenSeas.gr will add that route to its web page. If you want to purchase tickets and you're still not seeing the route on OpenSeas.gr, click on this link on the Skyros Shipping site to find a list of travel agencies that sell tickets on their behalf. To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Rental House - Slope of the Old Village
This home provides tremendous views of the Aegean Sea (see picture to your right), and is conveniently located on the slopes of the mountain upon which the Old Village of Alonnisos rests. Because it's situated away from the very center of the old town, it's generally a very quiet area. From this house it's perhaps a 7 minute walk to the bus stop in the Old Village, and about a 5 minute walk to the entrance of the donkey path that leads down to the port town of Patitiri.
To see a YouTube video I created showing a virtual tour of this house and property, click here. To contact the owner directly with any questions regarding the rental of this home click here.
Amazing Video of Alonnisos
Today a good friend who lives in Alonnisos most of the year posted a link on her Facebook page to a video of the island that was produced by Vangelis Photography in Greece. If you click here you’ll be led to this video on YouTube, and if you’ve not seen it before, I believe you'll find it to be quite spectacular.
If you are a person who has yet to visit Alonnisos, I highly recommend this video as it provides a very panoramic view of the island. On the other hand, even if you’re like me and have spent a lot of time on Alonnisos, or actually live there, it’s still very much worth watching. Enjoy!
