The Alonnisos Insider Site
About the Writer
Jeff Maziarek is an author and inspirational speaker. He fell in love with Alonnisos when he first visited the island in 1997, and now considers it his second home.
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Welcome to the "Alonnisos Insider" Site
Welcome to the Alonnisos Insider Site! As a frequent visitor to Greece (i.e., 11 trips between 1997 and 2011) I've learned many things about traveling there, and am particularly knowledgeable about Alonnisos island. My primary intention with this site is to provide readers with valuable insights into the island itself, including guidance with respect to: - The primary methods of getting to/from Alonnisos
- Detailed information about what to see and do when visiting there
- Courtesy listings for rooms, studios and homes available for rent on the island
The best way to use the site is to refer to the Category Archives box to your left, as it provides a summary of all topics that are covered. If you have any questions regarding anything on this site, or have specific questions about Alonnisos, please contact me via email by clicking here. If you have found value in this website and are a member of Facebook, please click on this link to be taken to the Alonnisos Insider page on Facebook, where you can choose to "Like" the site. This will help us to spread the word about the Alonnisos Insider. Thanks! Also please note that I've placed 82 beautiful photos of Alonnisos on that Facebook page, so check them out when you have a chance.
Important Notice: The date and time stamp at the bottom of every post is not always reflective of the "newness" of the information shared, as I regularly update older posts after every trip to Greece. Finally, please note that to keep this site "pure," none of the links on this site provide compensation to me or this website for any "click-throughs" made on your part.
Rental Villa in Steni Vala - Villa Agnadema
For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, telephone Gioula Kalogianni or her daughter Maria (the woman in Patitiri who was so kind to Andi and I after our motorbike accident in August of 2011) at: (30) 24240-65155 (summer period) or (30) 24240-65645 (winter period) or via mobile phone at: (30) 6979771562. To contact Gioula or Maria via email click here. When contacting the owners please mention the code ABAV so they know you learned about the Agnadema Villa on the Alonnisos Insider Site. Thanks.
Exercise Caution when Driving in Alonnisos – a Personal Story
Since our return from Greece last September I debated writing this post, as it’s clearly not the type of information I would usually share on what is supposed to be a fun and interesting blog. My primary intent with this post is to emphasize how important it is for visitors (and locals) to exercise great caution when driving on Alonnisos, because the roads are narrow, and there are other risks to be aware of as well. The balance of this article will explain how this life lesson was drilled into my consciousness last summer.
On August 30, 2011 my wife Andi and I were riding our Honda SuperCub 90 to a dinner party being held in Votsi, a small town and harbor, which is less than five minutes from the main port of Patitiri. We have rented this classic motorbike from our friend Ilias of I&M Motorbike Rental for many years now. Our British friend Geoff Elliott refers to it as our “trusty steed,” and in fact it has been a very reliable bike for us. In any event, we entered Votsi that night and very slowly started heading east down one of the few east-west streets that go all the way through it.
At the end of that road we took a right turn to head up into the hills where the party was being held. Within a split second I heard a racing engine and peripherally saw a red vehicle approach rapidly from the right – before I could make any evasive move the car hit us quite violently. The bumper caught my right shin and I was thrown completely from the bike. Unfortunately, because Andi was on the back she fared much worse than me as the bike fell right on top her and trapped her underneath. The driver of the car, who we would later learn was quite drunk, didn’t even realize what had happened, so he popped the clutch again and hit the bike (and Andi) again! She immediately screamed out in pain and told me to run the rest of the way to the party and get her mother and step-dad so they could drive us to the local clinic. I took off running and fortunately a nice young Italian man picked me up on his motorbike and sped me up to my destination.
Thankfully, in my absence, a group of local Greeks arrived at the accident scene and promptly brought ice and elevated Andi’s leg. We always will be grateful to them for their kindness and compassion that night, but regrettably in all the confusion we never had the opportunity get their names so we could properly thank them. As for the driver of the car, allegedly a stone mason from Albania whose name I will not mention, he finally got out of his car after he realized what happened, then inspected the front bumper for damage, but said absolutely nothing to Andi before returning to his car and speeding away from the scene.
The rest of that evening was filled with a lot of pain for Andrea, and since the clinic had no X-ray machine, we had no choice but to purchase boat tickets for the four of us to Volos on the first boat out the following morning. It was a very stressful night with very little sleep for either of us, and in order to be close to the port we actually stayed in Patitiri in a room kindly donated by a lovely Greek woman named Maria who has rental rooms located just a block away. Our dear friends Eleni and Victor from the Ostria Café also showed incredible kindness by preparing some food for us since we had obviously missed the dinner party.
The next day we went to Volos on the Flying Dolphin and took a taxi to the hospital. Fortunately, X-rays proved to be negative, but the doctor made it clear that Andi would need to be on crutches for the next 10 days or more. She was in a lot of pain, but other than some anti-inflammatory medicine there was nothing more that could be done but to give her body time to heal. Naturally this accident put a damper on the rest of our trip, as it limited Andi’s mobility substantially, since walking in hilly Alonnisos is almost impossible when one is forced to use crutches to get around. She also had to travel all the way home to Chicago with them, and that led to numerous challenges for her.
The day after our return from Volos we learned that the driver of the car denied any wrongdoing on his part, allegedly saying that “they actually ran into my car.” When I heard that, I have to admit I just shook my head, as I couldn’t believe he could have such little integrity and such a lack of compassion. Lest someone believe this has something to do with his nationality (i.e., an Albanian), the reality is there are good and people of every heritage on the planet, and we know some wonderful Albanian people on the island. With that said, I have to admit, that no matter how irrational this may sound, this entire experience initially left me feeling uninspired to ever visit Alonnisos again. And yet, I know in my heart that we will indeed return to the island at some point in the future.
As I write this today I am pleased to report that Andi’s right leg has healed up quite nicely, but it has taken over five months to get to this point. I want to emphasize that the intent of sharing this story is not in any way meant to give people second thoughts about visiting Alonnisos. On the contrary, it’s my heartfelt desire that as many people as possible have the opportunity to experience being on this amazing island. In addition, none of what I’ve written here should be interpreted to mean that I no longer recommend driving either a motorbike or a car on the island. The reality is if one wants to experience as much of the island as possible, a vehicle of some sort is needed.
The primary lesson for readers to take away from this story is that you must always remember to be very cautious when driving on the island. This is particularly the case during the high tourist season in August, when a much larger number of cars clog the roads courtesy of all of the vehicles that come to the island on ferry boats. In addition, should you choose to drive into the town of Votsi (and you should because there are some good restaurants there and a beautiful little port - see photo to your right), please don’t go speeding through there, because there are numerous blind corners from which both cars and motorbikes can unexpectedly emerge.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
On August 30, 2011 my wife Andi and I were riding our Honda SuperCub 90 to a dinner party being held in Votsi, a small town and harbor, which is less than five minutes from the main port of Patitiri. We have rented this classic motorbike from our friend Ilias of I&M Motorbike Rental for many years now. Our British friend Geoff Elliott refers to it as our “trusty steed,” and in fact it has been a very reliable bike for us. In any event, we entered Votsi that night and very slowly started heading east down one of the few east-west streets that go all the way through it. At the end of that road we took a right turn to head up into the hills where the party was being held. Within a split second I heard a racing engine and peripherally saw a red vehicle approach rapidly from the right – before I could make any evasive move the car hit us quite violently. The bumper caught my right shin and I was thrown completely from the bike. Unfortunately, because Andi was on the back she fared much worse than me as the bike fell right on top her and trapped her underneath. The driver of the car, who we would later learn was quite drunk, didn’t even realize what had happened, so he popped the clutch again and hit the bike (and Andi) again! She immediately screamed out in pain and told me to run the rest of the way to the party and get her mother and step-dad so they could drive us to the local clinic. I took off running and fortunately a nice young Italian man picked me up on his motorbike and sped me up to my destination.
Thankfully, in my absence, a group of local Greeks arrived at the accident scene and promptly brought ice and elevated Andi’s leg. We always will be grateful to them for their kindness and compassion that night, but regrettably in all the confusion we never had the opportunity get their names so we could properly thank them. As for the driver of the car, allegedly a stone mason from Albania whose name I will not mention, he finally got out of his car after he realized what happened, then inspected the front bumper for damage, but said absolutely nothing to Andi before returning to his car and speeding away from the scene.
The rest of that evening was filled with a lot of pain for Andrea, and since the clinic had no X-ray machine, we had no choice but to purchase boat tickets for the four of us to Volos on the first boat out the following morning. It was a very stressful night with very little sleep for either of us, and in order to be close to the port we actually stayed in Patitiri in a room kindly donated by a lovely Greek woman named Maria who has rental rooms located just a block away. Our dear friends Eleni and Victor from the Ostria Café also showed incredible kindness by preparing some food for us since we had obviously missed the dinner party.
The next day we went to Volos on the Flying Dolphin and took a taxi to the hospital. Fortunately, X-rays proved to be negative, but the doctor made it clear that Andi would need to be on crutches for the next 10 days or more. She was in a lot of pain, but other than some anti-inflammatory medicine there was nothing more that could be done but to give her body time to heal. Naturally this accident put a damper on the rest of our trip, as it limited Andi’s mobility substantially, since walking in hilly Alonnisos is almost impossible when one is forced to use crutches to get around. She also had to travel all the way home to Chicago with them, and that led to numerous challenges for her. The day after our return from Volos we learned that the driver of the car denied any wrongdoing on his part, allegedly saying that “they actually ran into my car.” When I heard that, I have to admit I just shook my head, as I couldn’t believe he could have such little integrity and such a lack of compassion. Lest someone believe this has something to do with his nationality (i.e., an Albanian), the reality is there are good and people of every heritage on the planet, and we know some wonderful Albanian people on the island. With that said, I have to admit, that no matter how irrational this may sound, this entire experience initially left me feeling uninspired to ever visit Alonnisos again. And yet, I know in my heart that we will indeed return to the island at some point in the future.
As I write this today I am pleased to report that Andi’s right leg has healed up quite nicely, but it has taken over five months to get to this point. I want to emphasize that the intent of sharing this story is not in any way meant to give people second thoughts about visiting Alonnisos. On the contrary, it’s my heartfelt desire that as many people as possible have the opportunity to experience being on this amazing island. In addition, none of what I’ve written here should be interpreted to mean that I no longer recommend driving either a motorbike or a car on the island. The reality is if one wants to experience as much of the island as possible, a vehicle of some sort is needed.
The primary lesson for readers to take away from this story is that you must always remember to be very cautious when driving on the island. This is particularly the case during the high tourist season in August, when a much larger number of cars clog the roads courtesy of all of the vehicles that come to the island on ferry boats. In addition, should you choose to drive into the town of Votsi (and you should because there are some good restaurants there and a beautiful little port - see photo to your right), please don’t go speeding through there, because there are numerous blind corners from which both cars and motorbikes can unexpectedly emerge.To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Panselinos Estiatorio & Bar - Old Village
Another good quality restaurant in the Old Village of Alonnisos is the Panselinos Estiatorio & Bar. Conveniently located directly across from the place where the city bus lets passengers from Patitiri off, Panselinos is housed in a beautiful, expansive building that offers more seating than any other restaurant in the Old Village. Panselinos has an extensive menu featuring a wide assortment of traditional Greek dishes, and offers a full liquor bar as well as a nice selection of wines. 
In addition to its indoor seating, Panselinos has an outdoor area (see photo to your left) with a number of tables for folks who prefer to dine al fresco. This restaurant also offers free WI-Fi access, which makes it a very popular place for anyone with a laptop or smart phone that needs to access the Internet. Plus, the local rock band called the "Aloni Band" often plays its concerts directly in front of Panselinos, which tend to attract a large number of people during the summer. If the band happens to be playing during your stay, be certain to bring your dancing shoes!When you visit the Old Village, be sure to stop by Panselinos to sample their cuisine, or to have a cold beverage or a coffee drink while you enjoy the view.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Rental Villa in the Old Village center - Villa Stella
Villa Stella is located near the entrance to the Old Village of Alonissos entrance right next to a very beautiful old Byzantine church. This colorful, two-story house was built using mainly rock, wood and a lot of fantasy on the part of Stella, its very creative owner, who also owns the Taste of Alonnisos store that I wrote about in a recent post. 
It is newly restored and includes a large terrace with an uninterrupted view of the ocean. The house was decorated by Stella and her husband Nikos with respect to the local style and architecture. Villa Stella can accommodate up to four persons, and features a fully equipped kitchen, a TV set, a fireplace and air conditioning units. For more information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, visit the website for Villa Stella by clicking here. To reach Stella directly via email click here.
Geko Silver & Art store – Old Village
During the summer of 2011, our friend Valantis opened a second "Geko" gift store in the Old Village that is absolutely beautiful. Known and respected as man with great taste, he followed his dream and created a very novel shop that features top quality jewelry, fashion accessories, artwork, and much more. Located just a few steps up from the main plateia in the Old Village, the Geko Silver & Art store resembles shops that one might expect to find in upscale shopping districts in major cities like Rome, Paris, London, and other European capitals. And, this store doesn't just have an eclectic selection of premium merchandise, its interior also is exquisitely and very
tastefully decorated. When you visit the Old Village during your next trip to Alonnisos, be sure to stop by the Geko Silver & Art store to experience this truly one-of-a-kind shopping experience on the island. And, please tell Valantis that Andrea and Jeff send him their very best regards.
Recommended Car Rental Company – Venus Automobile/Car Rental
During the latter part of our 2011 trip to Alonnisos, regrettably my in-laws' antiquated Ford van experienced a major transmission failure after many years of reliable service, and it needed to be scrapped. Since all four of us would need access to a car occasionally during the final week of our stay, my very generous in-laws decided to rent a car that we all could use. A friend of theirs had recommended a small rental agency called Venus Automobile/Car Rental in Patitiri, so my wife Andrea's step-father Peter took a trip down there to check out the cars and prices.
Peter was greeted by a very friendly woman named Mary (or perhaps Maria?), and he was very pleased to learn that the price was affordable, and the available car appeared to be very well-maintained. Later that day we drove down to finalize the rental agreement and pick up the car. When we arrived, the vehicle was clean and all ready to go. We used that car for six days, and it provided flawless service during the entire time. Peter returned it on the day of our departure, and Mary was kind enough to drive him down to the ferry embarkation point that day.
If you are planning on visiting Alonnisos and intending to rent a car for all or part of your stay, I highly recommend Venus Automobile/Car Rental. Above is Venus' business card with contact phone numbers for both their land line and mobile phones. The business is located directly across from the school on the main road leading up from the harbor (i.e., the road with the big pine tree in the middle of it).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Peter was greeted by a very friendly woman named Mary (or perhaps Maria?), and he was very pleased to learn that the price was affordable, and the available car appeared to be very well-maintained. Later that day we drove down to finalize the rental agreement and pick up the car. When we arrived, the vehicle was clean and all ready to go. We used that car for six days, and it provided flawless service during the entire time. Peter returned it on the day of our departure, and Mary was kind enough to drive him down to the ferry embarkation point that day. If you are planning on visiting Alonnisos and intending to rent a car for all or part of your stay, I highly recommend Venus Automobile/Car Rental. Above is Venus' business card with contact phone numbers for both their land line and mobile phones. The business is located directly across from the school on the main road leading up from the harbor (i.e., the road with the big pine tree in the middle of it).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Recommended Hotel in Kimi – Valledi Village Hotel
On our return trip from Alonnisos in September of 2011, we chose to take an alternate route to Athens by booking passage on the Skyros Ferry to the port of Kimi on the island of Evia. Each ferry ticket was only €23, which was about half the cost of taking an Hellenic Seaways Flying Cat to Agios Konstantinos. Andrea and I, along with her mom and stepfather, took the advice of a British friend and booked a reservation at a hotel in Kimi called the Valledi Village. (Note that is is pronounced "Vah-len-dee.) This hotel is located in Kimi Beach as opposed to Kimi Town, which is about ten minutes away from the port (i.e., up the mountain) by taxi. 
To say that we were impressed with this hotel would be a huge understatement. The place is simply wonderful, with spacious rooms and a beautiful swimming pool as well. It also offers suites and apartments that include an upstairs level. All of the rooms have a balcony with a view to the sea, and include air conditioning, TV, refrigerator and phone. Wi-fi access also is available through arrangement with the manager (i.e., you need a security code). T
his fantastic hotel also includes a breakfast hall (the food was great!), TV viewing area, a bar, and a souvenir shop. If you’re a resident of Greece who is taking your car to Alonnisos on the ferry, the Valledi Village also offers free parking. In addition to all of this, the people who work there (see photo to your right) are some of the nicest people we’ve ever met while traveling in Greece. Please note that while our British friend said the hotel was very close to the ferry arrival point, the fact is it’s located about two kilometers to the south of there. So, if you chose to stay here, and you don’t have a car, you would need to take a taxi to the hotel. In addition, note that if you are returning to Athens through Kimi and intend on taking a KTEL coach bus, you will need to take a taxi up to Kimi Town to connect with the bus.
The room rates for the Valledi Village vary, of course, by time of year. We stayed there in early September 2011, after the busy season, and paid €55 for a double-room with breakfast. To inquire about room availability and prices, you can reach the hotel by phone at (30) 22220-24210, 22220-29150, or 22220-29151. The Valledi Village Hotel also has a very nice website with details about all of their rooms and services. Click here to visit the "Contact Us" page on the site.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Taste of Nature store – Old Village of Alonnisos
Nestled along the main walkway through the Old Village is a wonderful little store called “Taste of Nature.” The owner of this establishment is a very friendly and welcoming young woman named Stella, and her store features a wide assortment of natural products from Alonnisos itself, and from other locations in Greece as well. Local products include Alonnisos tuna, honey, sweets, soaps, and herbs (including oregano, thyme, sage, and mint). Also available are Greek traditional products such as extra virgin olive oil, olives, organic soaps, cosmetics, mixed herbs, and a selection of handmade wooden spoons, olive plates, and other dishes.
This group of products is just a small sampling of what Stella (pictured to your left with my wife Andrea) has available at this quaint store. As such, I highly recommend you take the time to visit it when you are in the Old Village, and stock up on some authentic Greek products. When you do so, please tell Stella that Andrea and I send her our best regards. To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Helios Restaurant & Bar in Patitiri
During our 2011 trip to Alonnisos we heard from several friends and from my in-laws as well, that we really needed to have a meal at the Helios Restaurant & Bar in the port town of Patitiri. They essentially raved about the quality of the food prepared there, and also remarked about the diverse nature of the menu. We eventually made it to Helios during the final week of our trip, and I must say that our dining experience there actually exceeded our expectations. The food was simply excellent in every respect and despite the fact that every table was filled, the service was quite solid that night as well.
Helios is also affectionately known by its regular customers as "Andy’s Bar" in honor of the owner and chef. Originating from Berlin, Andy (pictured to your right) is a professional chef who has extensive experience in preparing a wide range of gourmet dishes. My dear friend, "Ilias the Waiter," tells me that Andy spent four years in a top quality cooking school, and he also worked for several years as a chef in Italy prior to finding his way to Greece.
The night we visited Helios I ordered a Chicken Caesar Wrap that was perfectly prepared, and Andrea had a pasta dish that she greatly enjoyed. I don't recall what my in-laws ate that evening, but I do remember they, too, were very satisfied with their meals. Unfortunately, I also cannot recall the specifics of the menu, but I do know there were appetizers, salads, and entrees that (to my knowledge) are not available anywhere else on the island. That makes Helios a great alternative restaurant to dine at should you be ready to eat something beyond traditional Greek faire.
Helios also features a wide assortment of wines, beer, and hard liquor, and liqueurs. So, even if you're not ready for a meal it's worth your time to stop by and have a cocktail, or perhaps a coffee drink or some other beverage. I can assure you that both Andy and his girlfriend, Irini, (pictured to your left) will be very happy to welcome you. And, between them and their very efficient and entertaining waiter, Ivan, they will be certain to make your visit a very satisfying and enjoyable one.
Helios is located directly above the port of Patiri as you stand at point where the Port Police office is located in the center of the harbor. The restaurant is accessible from a set of steps on either road leading up from the port itself (the road is like a horseshoe, with the bottom of the shoe being the port).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Helios is also affectionately known by its regular customers as "Andy’s Bar" in honor of the owner and chef. Originating from Berlin, Andy (pictured to your right) is a professional chef who has extensive experience in preparing a wide range of gourmet dishes. My dear friend, "Ilias the Waiter," tells me that Andy spent four years in a top quality cooking school, and he also worked for several years as a chef in Italy prior to finding his way to Greece. The night we visited Helios I ordered a Chicken Caesar Wrap that was perfectly prepared, and Andrea had a pasta dish that she greatly enjoyed. I don't recall what my in-laws ate that evening, but I do remember they, too, were very satisfied with their meals. Unfortunately, I also cannot recall the specifics of the menu, but I do know there were appetizers, salads, and entrees that (to my knowledge) are not available anywhere else on the island. That makes Helios a great alternative restaurant to dine at should you be ready to eat something beyond traditional Greek faire.
Helios also features a wide assortment of wines, beer, and hard liquor, and liqueurs. So, even if you're not ready for a meal it's worth your time to stop by and have a cocktail, or perhaps a coffee drink or some other beverage. I can assure you that both Andy and his girlfriend, Irini, (pictured to your left) will be very happy to welcome you. And, between them and their very efficient and entertaining waiter, Ivan, they will be certain to make your visit a very satisfying and enjoyable one. Helios is located directly above the port of Patiri as you stand at point where the Port Police office is located in the center of the harbor. The restaurant is accessible from a set of steps on either road leading up from the port itself (the road is like a horseshoe, with the bottom of the shoe being the port).
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Recommended Hotel near Athens Airport - Peri's Hotel
On our return from Alonnisos in September 2011, we wanted to stay at a hotel near the Athens Venizelos Airport, rather than at our usual hotel in the Plaka area of the city. However, we had no desire to spend a lot of money given that we would only be in the room a short time. Our friend Shirley McDaniel, a former home owner on Alonnisos and a regular visitor to the Greece, recommended that we stay at a place called Peri’s Hotel (see photo to your right). It’s located about 10 minutes drive from the north gate of the airport. 
Built in 2004, it features 12 rooms (see sample room photo to your left), equipped with bathroom, fridge, TV, telephone, air conditioning, a hair dryer, and central heating. It also offers free wireless Internet access (WI-FI) in the lobby, and the hotel serves continental breakfast between 08.00 a.m. to 10.00 a.m. Transfer from and to the airport is available (free shuttle between 07:00 a.m. to 23:30 p.m.) 
We were met at the airport by a very friendly man named Anthony (pictured to your right with my wife) who whisked us off to this small but well equipped hotel. Although located in an out-of-the-way neighborhood, there is a very nice restaurant about four blocks from the hotel (10 minute walk roughly), though please note that one of those blocks is a dirt road. If you have more time, you can also walk about five blocks back to the main road, and then meander about 20 minutes more to the right and you'll find yourself at the sea front where there are numerous restaurants available. Please note that I actually took that walk and while the end-point (i.e., the sea) is very nice, the route itself isn't all that wonderful as the sidewalk actually disappears in a couple of places (very common in Greece) and also isn't very wide in spots.Now that we've discovered Peri's Hotel, there's no doubt in our minds that the next time we need to stay near the Athens airport (as opposed to the city center), we will be certain to book a room at this quaint little hotel. I cannot say enough about how nice and welcoming Anthony was, and the same goes for the owner Theodoros. At the price of just 80 Euros for a double room with breakfast (as of 9-11-2011), it offers much greater value in my view as compared to other alternatives that are nearer to the airport, such as the Sofitel (approx. 200 - 300 Euros) or the Holiday Inn (approx. 127 Euros or more).
For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Peri's Hotel via email by clicking here. The hotel also can be reached by phone at (+30) 22940 83763 or click on this link to visit the Peri's Hotel website.
If you do choose to stay at this nice little hotel, please do give our best regards to Anthony, and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago say hello.
Albedo Travel in Alonnisos
In particular, prior to departing on our trip I wrote an email to Albedo Travel to ask a question about purchasing boat tickets for our return trip to the Greek mainland. Within less than 24-hours I received a very friendly reply to my inquiry from the owner, Kostas Efstathiou. The speed of the response, was, in all honesty, not something I've been accustomed to when contacting businesses in Greece. Perhaps that's been due to the language barrier. In any event, once we arrived in Alonnisos I stopped at Albedo Travel to meet Kostas in person, and found him to be a wonderful person who is clearly dedicated to providing excellent service to his customers.
Albedo Travel has been in business since 1996 and offers a wide range of services, including booking accommodations for hotels, studios/apartments, and villas, plus renting cars and motorbikes, and offering guided walking tours In addition, Kostas offers boat trips, including two Marine Park Cruises (one that stops on the island of Kyra Panagia and another on Skantzoura island), and in 2012 he plans to add guided kayak tours (see photo to your left). Other tours include an all day bus tour of Alonnisos on a comfortable, air-conditioned coach bus. Kostas also works with other businesses on the island to accommodate special interest holidays related to Yoga practice and creative painting. To learn more about the services offered by Albedo Travel, click here to visit the company's website. To contact Kostas Efstathiou by phone on Alonnisos during the summer season call (30) 24240-65804; during the winter he can be reached in Athens at (30) 210-8062826.
You can also reach Albedo Travel via email by clicking here.
Riding and Renting a Motorbike on Alonnisos
During each of my ten stays on Alonnisos one of my very favorite things is riding a motorbike up and down the island's twisting roads, and navigating around the numerous obstacles that one encounters while cruising through the crowded streets of the port town of Patitiri. With respect to the latter, my wife and I always joke that driving through Patitiri is like playing a computer video game because all sorts of obstacles just appear at the last moment to keep you on your toes.
There are two particular stretches of the tarmac that are the most enjoyable in my view, the first being the views on the road between the Old Village and Patitiri (see picture to the left), and the second being those on the road down to the port town of Steni Vala (photo below right). In both cases the vistas are just amazing, and I truly have never tired of seeing these sights no matter how many times I driven up and down these roads. There's 
also something magical about the smell of the pine forests as you cruise down the road with the wind blowing softly on your face. There are times during the winter here in Chicago that I long for the scent of those beautiful pines and the visual treats that await me around every corner on the roads of Alonnisos.
To see a brief YouTube video of what driving the road down to Steni Vala is like, click here. The music clip attached to it is from a song called "Foreign Land" performed by a Paris, France-based rock and roll band called Televox (www.televoxmusic.com). The band is led by my good friend Lorenz Plassman, who I met on Alonnisos in 2007, and who gave me permission to use this copyrighted audio content.
How Safe is Riding a Motorbike on Alonnisos?
If you are a person who is comfortable riding a two-wheeled vehicle, in my view there is simply no better way to experience the island than to rent a motorbike. One of the first questions that you may ask is, "is it dangerous?" Honestly, yes, it can be if one is an inexperienced rider. As the driver, however, you are the one who is ultimately in control of your destiny. So, if you drive carefully, and stay sober while driving (this is critical on these roads), your chances of getting into an accident on Alonnisos are no worse than they are anywhere else, and perhaps less simply because there are dramatically less vehicles on the entire island than one normally would encounter at any one moment in a typical medium to large-size European or U.S. city.
So, assuming you are up for the challenge, the only thing you need to figure out is, who on Alonnisos to rent your motorbike from. In this regard, there are numerous businesses that rent them on the island, and I'm sure that for the most part you'd probably be satisfied with any number of them. There is, however, one particular business that I have rented from for over ten years, and every time I return I don't hesitate in going right back to them. The business I refer to is I & M Motorbike Rental, and the proprietors are Ilias and Maria.
They live in Volos during the winter, but come to spend every summer in Alonnisos where they offer a great assortment of motorbikes, backed by some of the friendliest service you'll find anywhere on the island. I first
rented from Ilias back in 1997, and since then he and his wife Maria have always provided me with a quality ride at a competitive price. More importantly, anytime I've experienced a problem (such as a flat tire), he's been excellent about getting me back on the road as quickly as possible. I cannot say enough about the character and hospitality of Ilias and Maria, and for that reason I highly recommend their rental business. In fact, during my visit in 2009 I suggested I&M to visitors from Italy and the U.S. who I had met while there and all of them reported complete satisfaction.
Just so you know, they offer both automatic transmission mopeds (see above) and automatic with shift (no clutch) models such as the famous Honda Cub (see photo at right). In addition, if you're into larger, traditional motorcycles, they can accommodate your needs there as well.
Finding I&M Motorbike Rental
I&M's original location is in Patitiri on what we call "the back street." The photo to your left of Ilias and his father, Apostolis, provides some insight as to what the storefront looks like. It's easy to find because there's a large number of motorbikes parked across the street from it. To contact I&M by phone call (30) 2424-065010 (where 30 is the country code). To reserve a motorbike via email click here.
During 2010 I&M built another facility out-island on the main road between the first road to Chrissi Milia, and the road to Kokkino Kastro beach. This larger facility (see photo to your right) is located on the left side of the road when you are coming from the direction of Patitiri. It is more convenient for people who are staying at the Alonnisos Hotel and other rental properties in the area. In addition to motorbikes this facility offers car wash services.
Happy motoring, but just be careful out there!
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also something magical about the smell of the pine forests as you cruise down the road with the wind blowing softly on your face. There are times during the winter here in Chicago that I long for the scent of those beautiful pines and the visual treats that await me around every corner on the roads of Alonnisos. To see a brief YouTube video of what driving the road down to Steni Vala is like, click here. The music clip attached to it is from a song called "Foreign Land" performed by a Paris, France-based rock and roll band called Televox (www.televoxmusic.com). The band is led by my good friend Lorenz Plassman, who I met on Alonnisos in 2007, and who gave me permission to use this copyrighted audio content.
How Safe is Riding a Motorbike on Alonnisos?
If you are a person who is comfortable riding a two-wheeled vehicle, in my view there is simply no better way to experience the island than to rent a motorbike. One of the first questions that you may ask is, "is it dangerous?" Honestly, yes, it can be if one is an inexperienced rider. As the driver, however, you are the one who is ultimately in control of your destiny. So, if you drive carefully, and stay sober while driving (this is critical on these roads), your chances of getting into an accident on Alonnisos are no worse than they are anywhere else, and perhaps less simply because there are dramatically less vehicles on the entire island than one normally would encounter at any one moment in a typical medium to large-size European or U.S. city.
So, assuming you are up for the challenge, the only thing you need to figure out is, who on Alonnisos to rent your motorbike from. In this regard, there are numerous businesses that rent them on the island, and I'm sure that for the most part you'd probably be satisfied with any number of them. There is, however, one particular business that I have rented from for over ten years, and every time I return I don't hesitate in going right back to them. The business I refer to is I & M Motorbike Rental, and the proprietors are Ilias and Maria.
They live in Volos during the winter, but come to spend every summer in Alonnisos where they offer a great assortment of motorbikes, backed by some of the friendliest service you'll find anywhere on the island. I first
rented from Ilias back in 1997, and since then he and his wife Maria have always provided me with a quality ride at a competitive price. More importantly, anytime I've experienced a problem (such as a flat tire), he's been excellent about getting me back on the road as quickly as possible. I cannot say enough about the character and hospitality of Ilias and Maria, and for that reason I highly recommend their rental business. In fact, during my visit in 2009 I suggested I&M to visitors from Italy and the U.S. who I had met while there and all of them reported complete satisfaction.
Finding I&M Motorbike Rental
I&M's original location is in Patitiri on what we call "the back street." The photo to your left of Ilias and his father, Apostolis, provides some insight as to what the storefront looks like. It's easy to find because there's a large number of motorbikes parked across the street from it. To contact I&M by phone call (30) 2424-065010 (where 30 is the country code). To reserve a motorbike via email click here.
Happy motoring, but just be careful out there!
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Milia Bay/Beach and the Milia Bay Hotel-Apartments
Like most beaches in Alonnisos, Milia Bay is comprised of stones as opposed to sand (see photo below left), so for optimum comfort you’ll either need to rent a beach chair (around 12 Euros with umbrella in 2010), use a heavy-duty beach mat, or have an air mattress (lie-low in the UK) to lie on. To see a brief YouTube video that shows a view of this beautiful beach from the sea, click here.
Milia Bay Hotel and Apartments
The Milia Bay Hotel/Apartments are owned and operated by a very friendly woman named Vivian, along with her very hospitable son Andreas and
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Italian Gelateria in Patitiri & the Old Village
Prior to the summer tourist season in 2007 they sold the business to two other Italians who now live on the island full-time, Barbara and Giorgia (pictured to the right), but not before Jana taught them everything they needed to know about making the ice cream with the same level of quality and taste that customers had become accustomed to over the years.
When you do visit Alonnisos and find your sweet tooth calling you after dinner (or at any other time), rest assured that you can't go wrong stopping by either location of the Gelateria. And, when you do see Giorgia, Matilda, or Barbara, please tell them Jeff and Andrea from the USA send her our best regards. Bon appetit.
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Old Village - Taverna Peri Orexios
Note that in addition to being seated and eating a meal at the restaurant, Taverna Peri Orexios offers both carry-out and delivery service if you happen to be staying in the Old Village.
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Rental Rooms at Megalos Mourtias Beach
The rooms (see photo to your left) are located perhaps just 50 meters from the taverna, so you can walk out your door and then be seated and ordering a meal in just a couple of minutes or less. The distance to the beach itself at Megalos Mourtias is essentially the same, which makes it a great place to stay if you really enjoy spending time near the ocean. For additional information or a price quotation, or to book a reservation, contact Ria and Yiannis Anagnostou via email by clicking here. When contacting them please mention the code ABMMR so they know you learned about these rental rooms on the Alonnisos Insider Site. Thanks.
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Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant in Patitiri
Another restaurant in Patitiri that I recommend is the Pleiades Restaurant & Bar, which is part of the Pleiades Hotel that overlooks the harbor in the main port of Patitiri. We have eaten there a couple of times during our most recent trips, and each time found both the food and the service to be excellent. It is owned and operated by two very nice gentlemen named Jorgos (George) and Tony, and the restaurant itself is a very laid back place that offers a great selection of local and ethnic dishes, fresh salads, a full bar, and desserts and coffees as well. Recently the owners made some enhancements to the restaurant, including the addition of a beautiful new stone bar and a pergola. The place also offers tremendous views of the port, and on a regular basis in the summer there is live entertainment, including performances by my friend Chester Smith and his pal Chris Browne, also known as The
Barefoot Blues Band. In addition to the restaurant, George and Tony rent out four rooms and five studios, all of which are attractively furnished and feature excellent views of the port of Alonnisos and the islets beyond. All of the rooms and studios include a refrigerator, air conditioning, an electric kettle, and a TV.
To learn more about the Pleiades Hotel & Restaurant, visit this link.
Lefto Gialos Beach and the Eleonas Estiatorio
When we initially visited this beach back in 1997 it was a lot different than it is today. The road wasn’t paved and in spots was very rough-going. In addition, there was just one restaurant, and its source of electricity was a gas-powered generator because power lines had not yet been extended to that area of the island. Back then it was so rustic there was a goat herder who regularly brought his flock down from the hills to drink water from a trough located right on the upper portion of the beach. I’ll never forget one day when I was lying on the beach almost asleep and I heard the sound of many ringing bells. I opened my eyes and was surrounded by perhaps 50 goats! Don't worry though, the goats are no longer brought down to that area to drink.
The Eleonas Estiatorio
Currently there are two restaurants at Lefto Gialos, and each of them has its own charm and following. We are particularly fond of the Eleonas Estiatorio because the food and service is always excellent, and, we have personally known the owners, Nikos and Magda, and their family, for more than thirteen years.
When we initially met Nikos and Magda in 1997, they treated us with very genuine filoxenia (Greek for hospitality), and each time we return we are treated like family. Nikos has also been very helpful to me in my feeble attempts at learning to speak Greek, often instructing me in the midst of serving our food! (photo to your left is of Nikos and me in 2006). During the busiest part of the tourist season Eleonas is always filled with customers, but even so we usually are able to get a table fairly quickly. If by chance you do have to wait for a spell, rest assured that your meals will be well worth the wait.
The Menu
Desserts are likewise available, as are a selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well. While not a daily menu item, one very sweet treat that Eleonas makes occasionally is called “fuskakia,” or “little blisters,” which are little balls of dough deep-fried and then sweetened with honey, and I believe a bit of cinnamon flavor as well. Trust me; it’s impossible to eat just one of them!
Atmosphere
To learn more about Eleonas, visit their website in English, or in Greek.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
Megalos Mourtias Beach and the Megalo Mourtia Taverna
One word of caution when you begin to carve out your place on the beach is that you must be aware that when a large ferry passes by, even one a couple kilometers or more out into the sea, eventually some very large waves that were generated by the ship's wake make their way to shore. When that happens, if you have set your towel, chair or lie-low too close to the water's edge you are definitely going to get wet! It's actually quite comical to watch this happen to unsuspecting newcomers, as it always results in a scramble to higher ground. To see a brief YouTube video that shows the view you'll get to experience at this lovely beach click here.
The Megalo Mourtia Taverna
The Megalo Mourtia Taverna (entrance from the beach is shown to your left) is our favorite taverna on the beach. It is owned and operated by a wonderful couple, Yiannis & Ria, who are assisted by their children Kelly and Dimitris, as well as various other family members. We first met Yiannis & Ria (pictured to your right along with Kelly) back in
The Menu
Atmosphere
From our experience, eating (or drinking ) at this establishment is like sitting down with good friends. The combination of excellent food and solid service makes this taverna one that you will want to return to whenever you visit the beach at Megalos Mourtias. When you do visit, please do give our regards to Yiannis & Ria, and tell them Jeff and Andrea sent you!
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Alonnisos Loses a Long-standing Home Owner - Nicoletta Trenta
Although this blog’s focus is to provide a wide variety of information about Alonnisos, once again I feel compelled to post news about the recent passing of a beloved friend on the island who we met more than a decade ago. Her name was Nicoletta Trenta, and she lived in Torino, Italy, but owned a home in the Old Village area of Alonnisos for over twenty years. She usually spent entire summers on the island, and was known and loved by people everywhere on the island.
Andrea and I originally met Nicoletta (pictured between us to your right) during the summer of 2000, as her home was located just behind the rental house we were using that summer. We took an instant liking to her, and just about every evening after returning from my hike to/from Micros Mourtias beach I'd walk down to Nicoletta's house and we'd have a cocktail together and a wonderful conversation. She always made me laugh like crazy; in fact, she often made everyone around her laugh because she had such an amazing sense of humor. When she combined her beautiful Italian accent with her sometimes interesting use of the English language, there were many times she was downright hysterical to listen to. She always made me smile, and because of it I even included her name in the acknowledgments pages of my first book.
Over the ten years we knew her, we had the pleasure of spending many great times with her, and she always kept us entertained. She really did revel in making people happy, and at times she also enjoyed being ornery just for the hell of it; the truth is we loved her either way. The last time we saw Nicoletta was in the summer of 2009, and it was at that time that she began to have some health challenges, though she never told anyone what was at issue. Despite those health problems, she remained quite busy and active that summer, and even joined us one time when we took a boating trip on my in-laws' caique (see photo to your left of her and my step father-in-law Peter).
To say that I personally will miss Nicoletta's presence on Alonnisos would be a major understatement. Andi and I both loved her like she was family, and the thought of returning to the island and not seeing her big smile and getting a warm hug and "kiss-kiss" from her is not a pleasant one. Nicoletta truly was part of the very fabric of the island for all the years she visited there, and there is no doubt she will be sorely missed by anyone who had the great pleasure to know her.
Andrea and I originally met Nicoletta (pictured between us to your right) during the summer of 2000, as her home was located just behind the rental house we were using that summer. We took an instant liking to her, and just about every evening after returning from my hike to/from Micros Mourtias beach I'd walk down to Nicoletta's house and we'd have a cocktail together and a wonderful conversation. She always made me laugh like crazy; in fact, she often made everyone around her laugh because she had such an amazing sense of humor. When she combined her beautiful Italian accent with her sometimes interesting use of the English language, there were many times she was downright hysterical to listen to. She always made me smile, and because of it I even included her name in the acknowledgments pages of my first book. Over the ten years we knew her, we had the pleasure of spending many great times with her, and she always kept us entertained. She really did revel in making people happy, and at times she also enjoyed being ornery just for the hell of it; the truth is we loved her either way. The last time we saw Nicoletta was in the summer of 2009, and it was at that time that she began to have some health challenges, though she never told anyone what was at issue. Despite those health problems, she remained quite busy and active that summer, and even joined us one time when we took a boating trip on my in-laws' caique (see photo to your left of her and my step father-in-law Peter). To say that I personally will miss Nicoletta's presence on Alonnisos would be a major understatement. Andi and I both loved her like she was family, and the thought of returning to the island and not seeing her big smile and getting a warm hug and "kiss-kiss" from her is not a pleasant one. Nicoletta truly was part of the very fabric of the island for all the years she visited there, and there is no doubt she will be sorely missed by anyone who had the great pleasure to know her.
The Ostria Café and Estiatorio in Patitiri
The restaurant we visit most often in Patitiri is called the Ostria Café, and it is operated by Eleni Anagnostou-Cupcea and her husband Victor. Her mother, Maria, also plays a big role in running the business. We originally met Eleni in 2000 when we spent the entire summer in Alonnisos so that I could work on my first book, and over the years she has become a dear friend to us.
Based on the number of tables, the Ostria Café is one of the largest restaurants in Patitiri, but just because it can serve so many people at once doesn’t in any way mean that you won’t get high quality meals. On the contrary, all dishes are cooked to order and are, in our experience, always very delicious. In addition, since Eleni has worked in this restaurant since she was a young girl, she knows how to run it very efficiently, and works very hard to make sure that high levels of customer service and food quality are always maintained. Victor is the head waiter and there’s none better on the island. When we first met him a few years ago we were very impressed with his command of multiple languages, including his native Russian, Greek, English (very fluent), some Italian & German, and perhaps even more as I write this! (The picture above of the four of us was taken in the summer of 2007.)
The Menu
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the Ostria Café has an expansive menu, so large in fact that I’m amazed Eleni can make so many different types of food available on a daily basis! Breakfast meals include ham and egg dishes, a wide assortment of omelets, juices, and more. The lunch and dinner menus include hot and cold appetizers, numerous salads, and pizzas as well.
As for the entrees, it is in this area that Eleni’s fantastic cooking skills are most apparent. Her oven-baked dishes, including some lamb and chicken entrees, are simply wonderful. She also prepares traditional Greek dishes such as Moussakas and Pastitio if you have a preference for those. In addition, once dinner is over there are various dessert options, and the Ostria Café also has a wide selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well.
Atmosphere
The Ostria Café (pictured to your right) is located right on the waterfront in Patitiri very near to where most of the hydrofoils and day-boats arrive, so it is very centrally located and offers a great view of the harbor. It is also a Wireless Access Point if you are traveling with a laptop and need Internet access. The location also makes this restaurant an excellent place to sit and people watch. At night the opportunities to do just that grow exponentially as numerous tourists typically flood the area looking for a place to eat.
In 2007 we celebrated my 51st birthday at the Ostria Café and had an excellent meal, a delicious birthday cake, and plenty of fun as well. Assuming you take our advice and visit this brilliant estiatorio, please do ask for Eleni and let her know that Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! Whether you do that or not, I’m certain you’ll be glad you stopped to eat there, and I have no doubt you’ll want to return for more of Eleni’s superb cooking and the entire family's sincere hospitality.
To contact me via email with any questions regarding this post click here.
The Menu
As for the entrees, it is in this area that Eleni’s fantastic cooking skills are most apparent. Her oven-baked dishes, including some lamb and chicken entrees, are simply wonderful. She also prepares traditional Greek dishes such as Moussakas and Pastitio if you have a preference for those. In addition, once dinner is over there are various dessert options, and the Ostria Café also has a wide selection of aperitifs, coffee and tea as well.
Atmosphere
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The Akrogiali Estiatorio in Patitiri
Even with such popularity, however, you won't find Pasxalis making any overt attempt to speed you out of his restaurant so he can seat the next customers. In my experience this is because he really does believe in practicing "filoxenia" (Greek, for hospitality), and wants you to be completely satisfied with your dining experience. Every since the first time we ate there in 2000 we've been welcomed like family, and that exceptional treatment combined with the delicious food that's served there makes Akrogiali a place we return to again and again.
The Menu
Atmosphere
Should you take our advice and visit this wonderful estiatorio, please do ask for Pasxalis and tell him Jeff & Andrea from Chicago sent you! You won't regret your decision to have a meal there, and my guess is, you'll want to go back again and again.
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The Flisvos Estiatorio in Patitiri
During the high season his lovely daughter, Eleni, usually visits for at least a fortnight from England (she is pictured to the left between Andrea and I), and also helps out in the restaurant. She is always accompanied by her son, Christos, a very bright little fellow who speaks fluent Greek and English as well despite being just a young boy.
In all of our visits to Alonnisos we've never met a more close-knit and friendly Greek family than the Papachristos, nor have we ever encountered any group of Greeks who display more filoxenia (Greek for hospitality) than they do. Truly, whenever Andrea and I walk into the restaurant we are always greeted very warmly, and treated like friends of the family.
The Menu
Atmosphere
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Kastro Restaurant in the Old Village
In my view there are three primary reasons for Kastro's continued success over the years. First and foremost, the food is excellent (more about that in a moment), second, the atmosphere is vibrant, and third, the owner, Nectarios (pictured on the left with Andrea and me) is a professional restaurateur who is dedicated to making sure his customers are completely satisfied with their dining experience. Part of this is a commitment to making sure that food orders are filled as promptly as possible - to assist in meeting this objective, back in 2007 he became the first restaurant owner on the island to install a state-of-the art wireless ordering system that allows the kitchen to start preparing orders while Nectarios is entering them right at the table via a touch-screen order entry pad. 
Andrea and I originally met Nectarios back in 2002, and since that time have come to consider him as a very dear friend. Unlike some other restaurant owners in Greece we've met who we feel "feign" friendliness, it's obvious that Nectarios really does like foreign visitors to the island, and is very grateful when they choose to eat at his restaurant. He truly embodies the spirit of the Greek term "filoxenia" (friendship and hospitality to foreigners). The picture to your right was taken during the summer of 2010, and in addition to Nectarios includes my in-laws Elaine & Peter Cunningham. It was late in the season, so we had a rare opportunity to have a long and enjoyable conversation with our good friend. The Menu
The dish that Kastro is most known for is Nectarios' renowned "roast pork on a spit" called Kontosoufli. Other available foods include grilled chicken, lamb chops, swordfish, calamari, a host of tasty hot and cold appetizers, and a full range of fresh salads as well. In addition, one of Nectarios' most popular appetizers is flaming Saganaki cheese. Click on this link to see a brief YouTube video of him preparing and delivering that dish to a customer during August of 2011. While other restaurants offer similar types of food, from our experience there is certainly no better grilled food in Alonnisos.
Nectarios also has a nice selection of bottled wines, plus the usual beers typically found in restaurants in Greece (i.e., Amstel, Heineken, and Mythos). I can honestly say we've never had a bad meal at Kastro, and in the rare instances where something we ordered wasn't exactly what we wanted, Nectarios made sure that we were fully satisfied in the end. To view a portion of the Kastro's extensive menu, click here.
Atmosphere
To learn more about Kastro you can visit the restaurant's website by clicking here. Finally, when you do visit Kastro please feel free to greet Nectarios by name (i.e., Nectario [drop the "s"]), and tell him Jeff & Andrea sent you!
